Exploring Watchmaking Through Materials Spotted at Watches & Wonders 2026

Although the vast majority of mechanical watches are still made in steel, there are plenty of alternative materials, of course. One of the oldest and most widespread ones is gold, followed by titanium and perhaps platinum. On the more uncommon end of the spectrum, we find watches made in other types of metals, cutting-edge composite materials or even full sapphire, for that matter. While each has its own appeal, the use of these unusual materials pushes a watch into an entirely new direction. And even today, at a time when seemingly all seems done, we still get treated to new and rather special materials. So with that in mind, we’re bringing together some of the coolest new watches from Watches and Wonders 2026 that do things a bit differently.

H. Moser & Cie. x Reebok Streamliner Pump

One of the most fun and surprising watches was H. Moser & Cie.’s Streamliner Pump, made in partnership with sneaker giant Reebok. Not only has Moser re-engineered the functionality of how to wind a watch with the special pump system, but it also uses a material rarely seen in watchmaking before: forged quartz fibre! The production is similar to forged carbon fibre, as the base material is cut into strands, placed in a mould, compressed and injected with resin. The result is a material that has a unique mottled look, is UV-resistant, lightweight and can be coloured through and through. The Streamliner Pump comes in white or black, but in theory, it doesn’t have to end there. For the rest, it’s a typical Moser watch. The look is unmistakably Streamliner, and the engineering and finishing are of the highest order. Limited to 250 pieces per colour, the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump retails for CHF 31,360, excl. VAT.

For more details, head over to our video review here.

IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Ceralume

IWC had already teased a fully luminous Big Pilot’s Watch back in 2024, presenting a material called Ceralume. As masters in the use of ceramic (think Lake Tahoe, Mojave Desert and of course: Ceratanium), IWC went well beyond what was known, but it was a “proof of concept” only. Now, though, it’s commercialised in the IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Ceralume, and it’s…. bright! During the day, it’s almost fully white with basically only the crown standing out, and contrast on the dial coming from polished and matte finishes. During the night, however, the thing lights up like a torch! The ceramic compound used for the case is infused with Super-LumiNova pigments, with the dial, hands, and even the strap joining in on the illuminated spectacle! Polarising for sure, it does show you how far ceramics can be pushed. Limited to 250 pieces, this Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Ceralume retails for CHF 65,000.

For more details, head over to our hands-on story here.

Zenith G.F.J. Tantalum

While a pure dress watch with hours, minutes and small seconds at heart only, the latest editions of the Zenith G.F.J. prove that even the simplest of displays can benefit from a change of material. While the original from last year was made in platinum, the brand returned with two extraordinary models, with one using heavyweight Tantalum for the case. The material is notoriously hard to machine and finish, outweighs conventional steel by a factor of two, and even surpasses the heft of gold and platinum. Yet, the greyish gunmetal shine of Tantalum is what makes it so desirable to many. It tones a watch down, yet elevates it at the same time. It’s also the perfect backdrop for the black onyx centre of the dial, surrounded by a grid-like guilloché pattern and applied diamond hour markers. And don’t forget the calibre 135 around the back! Only 20 will be made, for CHF 73,900.

For more details, head over to our hands-on story here.

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Settling down with a somewhat more conventional watch, both in looks and in materials, the new Tudor Black Bay Ceramic certainly made an impact during the fair. While most attention for the brand might have gone to the all-new Monarch, this one was a close second when talking to others about Tudor. While ceramic isn’t new to Tudor nor the Black Bay collection, this one marks the debut of the brand’s first three-link bracelet in full ceramic, with a new type of folding clasp. The matte finish enhances the utilitarian look and feel of the watch, and the dial plays along in a similar monochromatic colour palette, although slightly lighter in tone. And let’s not forget it’s also fitted with the brand’s COSC and METAS-certified MT5602-U automatic movement, so you get a pretty complete package. Retailing for CHF 6,300, it’s also one of the most accessible full ceramic watches on the market!

For more details, head over to our introductory story here.

Bianchet UltraFino Maserati

Last but by no means least is the ultra-sporty and resilient Bianchet UltraFino Maserati, a limited edition made in partnership with the fabled Italian carmaker. Machined out of high-density forged carbon, the UltraFino Maserati follows the brand’s design ethos with a shaped case, an integrated forged bracelet, an exposed coloured gasket beneath the bezel and a fully openworked dial and tourbillon movement. Prioritising weight and comfort, the ergonomics are on point, and the watch only puts 36 grams on the scale if worn on said bracelet. Inspiration for the aqua blue-toned elements, as well as the shapes of the dial, comes from the Maserati MCPURA supercar. All in all, it’s a finely executed watch that can take a proper beating if needed and will not weigh you down in the process. However, it will set you back a substantial amount, as the 100-piece limited edition retails for CHF 75,500.

For more details, head over to our hands-on story here.