Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

Zenith was founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, in the canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Georges Favre-Jacot is considered one of the first to develop the concept of a Manufacture, bringing together all the major watchmaking professions under one roof (movement, dial, case makers,etc.). The company soon branded itself as Zenith, in reference to the highest point reached by a heavenly body in the sky. It was awarded a gold medal at the 1900 Paris Universal Exhibition. By 1925, Zenith employed 1,000 people and was nicknamed “the Manufacture with 2,000 gold and silver hands". The brand has always devoted itself to precision watchmaking. With over 2,330 chronometry awards, it became the most decorated Maison in the history of these Observatory competitions. In 1969, Zenith unveiled the legendary El Primero, the first automatic high-frequency chronograph. Zenith was acquired by French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH in 2000, which owns other watch brands such as Bvlgari, TAG Heuer and Hublot. Benoit De Clerck is the current CEO.

A visionary, Georges Favre-Jacot dreamed of revolutionizing the conventional organization of the watch industry, bringing together all of its specialties under one roof to create a watch, from its design to final production. Inspired by the industrial revolution and its grand American factories he encountered during his travels, he envisioned a verticalized model where innovation and technical excellence united together as one. This modest workshop on Rue des Billodes in Le Locle soon transformed into an industrial marvel. Within a few years, the Zenith Manufacture became the largest  in the Neuchâtel mountains, spanning 9,300 square meters and comprising of 18 buildings. By the dawn of the 20th century, over 600 artisans, driven by a shared quest for excellence, were producing 100,000 watches annually. Georges Favre-Jacot was also business-savvy. In 1896, he entrusted his nephew, James Favre, with the mission of expanding the company’s footprint. James traversed the world’s continents, from Europe to Asia and America, forging connections that provided Zenith exceptional recognition.

Georges Favre-Jacot embraced a singular, bold dream: to create “the perfect watch.” In 1898, his first masterpiece caliber was named Zenith in reference to the highest point in the sky. And by 1911, the Maison itself was named Zenith in a steadfast declaration of its journey toward excellence. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, amidst the new century’s grand inventions, Zenith was crowned with a Grand Prix. The company also always dedicated itself to precision watchmaking. In 1897, the company entered the prestigious observatory chronometer competitions to become overtime the most decorated Maison in the history of these competitions with over 2,300 chronometry award.

The mid-20th century heralded the golden age of chronometry competitions, and ZENITH’s supremacy was reinforced with the development of the legendary Caliber 135-O. This movement, purpose-built for these trials, achieved unparalleled acclaim with 230 distinctions. Between 1950 and 1954, The Calibre 135-O achieved an extraordinary feat: five consecutive first-place awards in the wristwatch category at the Neuchâtel Observatory—a record that remains unmatched to this day.

The 1960s brought yet another bold challenge: the creation of the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph. True to its pioneering spirit, Zenith aimed for technical excellence in this chronograph, combining an ultra-thin, integrated movement with high-frequency performance. The result, unveiled on January 10, 1969, was the El Primero caliber, a masterpiece oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour and capable of measuring to one-tenth of a second. This landmark innovation transformed the world of watchmaking and set a new benchmark for precision and reliability.

The El Primero legacy owes much to an act of quiet heroism by watchmaker Charles Vermot. During the industry-transforming quartz crisis of the 1970s, ZENITH was sold to an American company , and production of the El Primero was ordered to a halt. Determined to protect this treasure, Vermot hid the tools and plans required for its creation, risking everything to preserve a future for the movement. His defiance bore fruit a decade later, when ZENITH resurrected the El Primero, restoring its place at the heart of Swiss watchmaking.

Charles Vermot, the man who saved the El Primero

In 2019, ZENITH redefined the El Primero with a groundbreaking evolution: the El Primero 3600 caliber. Harnessing the full potential of high-frequency technology, it enabled the chronograph hand to complete a full revolution in ten seconds, offering an intuitive and precise reading of tenths of a second.

Among today’s iconic collection, the Chronomaster sport is a tribute to the enduring sport chronograph tradition of the brand and to the El Primero legacy initiated in 1969. The dynamic geometric design of the Defy draws inspiration from the rugged, bold 1969 Defy standing out with its architectural case and multi-sided bezel. ​ Presented in 2023, the Pilot is the result of the brand’s long-lasting fascination with aviation. The brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote” as early as 1888 and for the English term “Pilot” in 1904. Zenith soon became an important manufacturer of pilot watches and dashboard instruments; its watches have accompanied aviation pioneers such Louis Blériot, author of the first flight over the English Channel in 1909.

History of Zenith

1865
Company founded by by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, in the canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland
1898
Presentation of the Zenith movement
1900
Georges Favre-Jacot wins a gold medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition
1909
A Zenith watch owner, French aviator Louis Blériot became the first to fly over the English Channel
1910
The company devises onboard instruments
1911
The brand officially becomes Zenith, meaning the highest point reached by a heavenly body in the sky
1925
Zenith employs 1,000 workers and is nicknamed "the Manufacture with 2,000 gold and silver hands"
1948
Launch of the legendary Calibre 135, a wristwatch chronometer with small seconds that earns 235 prizes
1960
The Calibre 5011K launches with a record-breaking precision in its category
1969
With El Primero, Zenith launches, the first ever integrated high-frequency automatic chronograph movement (36,000vph - 5Hz)
1975
Watchmaker Charles Vermot hides plans, parts and tools required for mechanical calibres to prevent their destruction during the quartz crisis
1984
Charles Vermot returns the production tools and Zenith moves from quartz back to mechanical calibres
1994
The ultra-thin automatic Elite movement launches, the first Zenith calibre developed using Computer Assisted Design technology
2000
Zenith is acquired by LVMH
2003
The Open concept is invented based on a dial opening revealing the escapement of the El Primero calibre
2009
The high-frequency El Primero celebrates its 40th anniversary
2010
The El Primero Striking 10th launches with a sweep seconds hand displaying tenths of a second
2011
The Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix (GPHG) awards the Best Complicated Watch Prize to the Academy Christophe Colomb Équation du Temps
2012
Zenith adds three new models to the Pilot collection with the Pilot Big Date Special winning the “Petite Aiguille” prize in the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix
2013
The Chronomaster El Primero Stratos Flyback Striking 10th wins the GPHG Sports Watch Prize
2014
The Chronomaster El Primero Lightweight wins the GPHG Sports Prize
2015
Zenith celebrates its 150th anniversary with the launch of the Zenith El Primero: Chronomaster 1969
2017
Zenith DEFY EL PRIMERO 21 introduces 1/100th of a second mechanical accuracy
2018
Zenith introduces a revolutionary oscillator with the Defy Inventor
2021
Zenith launches the Chronomaster Sport
2024
Benoit De Clerck is named CEO