Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Best of Ultra-Thin Watchmaking at Watches and Wonders 2026
Ultra-thin movements and slender cases were all around at W&W, for our greatest pleasure.
We’ve said in the past, and I’m not shy of repeating myself; ultra-thin watchmaking should be considered a proper complication. More than just about numbers printed on a specification sheet, more than just making a case thinner than the norm, ultra-thin watchmaking is a true expertise, a field of movement making that requires ingenuity, innovation and miniaturisation of the components, sometimes to a level that’s beyond belief. While this year we have not seen new records of thinness being broken (Bulgari and Piaget focused on different topics), there were potentially more ultra-thin watches than ever seen before. And that, in our books, is something that we can only applaud. Here are some of the best ultra-thin watches we’ve seen at Watches and Wonders 2026.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 37
The undisputed king of ultra-thin, Bulgari, was back at the fair with a new member of its ever-growing, record-breaking Octo Finissimo collection. But this time, it was about introducing a new complication or making thin even thinner, but about bringing one of its most emblematic models, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, more elegant and easier to wear. How? By reducing the diameter of the watch from 40mm to 37mm, which isn’t to be seen as small, considering the shape of the case (which wears slightly larger than the numbers suggest). In the process of becoming more versatile, the case becomes slightly thicker at 6.45mm, but the additional millimetre compared to the 40mm edition is largely compensated for by the overall comfort on the wrist. And bear in mind, this new Octo Finissimo 37 isn’t just a scaled-down version, as it features its own new movement, the calibre BVF100, boasting an impressive 72h power reserve despite its compactness. And if you want something that also sounds great, there’s a 37mm Minute Repeater too.
More details about the Octo Finissimo Automatic 37 and the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater 37 are in their respective articles.
Cartier Santos-Dumont on Bracelet
More a design intention than a need to break records, the Santos-Dumont by Cartier is, nevertheless, one of the thinnest watches in the brand’s collection. Thinness is intentional here, as part of the model’s elegance, with a slender profile of only 7.3mm – a fact that’s often overlooked by the whole history and design of the case. This year, the ultra-thin Santos was back in three high-end versions, in yellow gold or platinum, paired with either a classic silver dial or an obsidian stone dial. Part of the reason for the thinness comes from the Piaget-based hand-wound movement inside, using the 430P architecture. The big news for the model, however, is the introduction of metal bracelets with a multi-link profile that adds an undeniable relaxed elegance to this classic of Cartier.
More details about the latest versions of the Santos-Dumont are in this first look article.
Chopard L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue
While we’d love to mention the absolutely gorgeous 1860 Blue dial in this article, due to its compact case, guilloche dial and highly finished movement, the focus being on thinness, the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is the one making the list here. A follow-up to the Forest Green model released in 2024, this new version retains the same slenderness of 7.2mm, its sector layout for the dial and handsome micro-rotor inside. One of the most attainable models in the L.U.C collection, it looks and feels superb, even though we would have preferred its steel case to be a little more compact, at 38mm instead of the current 40mm diameter. That said, it is a truly handsome watch with an ultra-thin profile and important movement inside, for a price that’s quite reasonable.
More details about this new edition of the L.U.C XPS are in our hands-on article here.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre
There are a lot of things to say about Jaeger’s brand new Master Control Chronomètre collection. For starters, it’s an entirely new design for the brand, which finally enters the integrated bracelet category. The watch is nicely executed, in particular the bracelet, not overly expensive and refined for the most part. It also comes with a new precision certification (HPG) and features tried-and-tested in-house movements inside. One could potentially point to a certain lack of inspiration for the design, which feels a bit generic in some aspects (the dial and bezel…), but I’ll let you judge what you think about it. One point of particular interest for today’s story is the slenderness of the case, measured at 8.4mm, for a 38mm diameter. And more than just the number on the specification sheet, it’s the way the watch wraps around the wrist and feels ultra-thin that impresses.
More details about the new Master Control Chronomètre collection can be found here.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 38mm 5610P
One of the industry’s most emblematic watches of the last half-century has just celebrated its 50th anniversary. Indeed, the Nautilus has turned 50 this year, and Patek Philippe is celebrating this milestone in a restrained, almost under-the-radar way. The 3 wristwatches ( and 1 very surprising pocket watch too) all focus on the essential, on what makes a Nautilus so recognisable since its introduction: the shape of the case, the thinness of the profile, the pattern and colour of the dial. For that, Patek goes time-only, second-less, with a pure, restrained aesthetic approach. Among the 3 versions, the most notable one is the 5610P, a 38mm platinum edition that pays tribute to the early mid-size versions. And thanks to the use of the venerable but ultra-thin Calibre 240 inside, this compact edition is only 6.9mm in thickness. Visually and on the wrist, it is a true joy to wear.
More details about the entire Nautilus 50th anniversary collection in our dedicated article here.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin
While the Overseas collection by Vacheron Constantin has a lot to offer in terms of styles and complications, there was clearly something missing in recent years, an important model to fight against the two other members of the Holy Trinity: a time-only, ultra-thin version, a direct competitor to the Royal Oak 16202 and Nautilus 5811. Marking the end of the legendary calibre 1120 (which base powered the Overseas’ main competitors too), the new Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin 2500V comes with strong arguments and a new in-house, micro-rotor engine, the 2.4mm calibre 2550. And the best is probably the watch itself, a superb platinum edition measuring 39.5mm in diameter and only 7.35mm thick, which wears like a glove. Not to mention the beautiful salmon dial and no-date display. The price is, however, less attractive.
All the details about the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin can be found in our review with video here.
Special mention – Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing Mystery
While not participating in Watches and Wonders, Konstantin Chaykin was exhibiting last week as the AHCI. And as we’re on the topic of ultra-thin, it’s impossible not to mention the ThinKing Mystery, the indie watchmaker’s latest version of what is, to this day, the thinnest mechanical watch ever created. Measuring only 1.65mm in thickness and conceived only with traditional methods, the ThinKing is unbelievably thin and one of the most clever mechanical watches in recent years. The new Mystery edition adds a touch of playfulness with transparent discs for the regulator display, enhancing the wristmon effect. A true work of horological art that can’t remain unnoticed.
Read our interview with Konstantin Chaykin explaining the ThinKing here.
