Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Double-Signed Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 with Naoya Hida & Co.
A collaboration between Le Locle and Tokyo brings together one of the greatest chronometer movements and one of Japan's most respected independent brands.
When Zenith, celebrating its 160th Anniversary, revived the Calibre 135 in 2025 with the launch of the G.F.J. collection, the manufacture brought back one of the most important precision movements, a calibre that dominated observatory chronometry competitions throughout the 1950s and remains the most awarded movement of its kind. Taking the story in an unexpected and highly welcome direction, Zenith presents the G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co., a limited edition that inaugurates the brand’s new Double Signed Program. And the first step into this new venture is more than just promising…
The idea of a double-signed watch carries a special appeal. Historically, such pieces celebrated partnerships between prestigious manufacturers and important retailers, becoming some of the most desirable watches of their era – think Patek or Rolex with Tiffany-signed dials, for example. Zenith reinterprets this tradition by launching collaborations with selected independent watchmakers, thus allowing its iconic models to be viewed through a different lens.
For its first partner, Zenith could hardly have chosen a more interesting name than Naoya Hida & Co. The connection between the two brands reportedly began during a visit by Zenith’s Chief Product Officer, Romain Marietta, to Naoya Hida’s Tokyo workshop. Founded in 2018, the Japanese indie brand has quickly earned a devoted following among collectors thanks to its meticulous execution, restrained aesthetics and appreciation for mid-century watchmaking. Hida’s watches are often praised for their extraordinary attention to typography, proportions and finishing, but also classic design inspirations such as the mid-century Calatravas – qualities that make him a particularly natural collaborator for a project centred around the historically significant Calibre 135 and the classic time-only G.F.J. watch.
The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is unmistakably a G.F.J., yet it carries the distinctive elements of Naoya Hida’s NH Type 2, as seen in this article. The platinum case measures 39.15mm in diameter and 10.5mm in height, dimensions that feel entirely appropriate for a chronometer-focused dress watch. Elegant, stepped lugs, a slim polished bezel, and balanced proportions give the watch a refined presence, while its compact size brings out its vintage-inspired character. Water resistance is 50m.
The dial, with Hida’s influence most apparent, is crafted from solid silver and carries the restrained aesthetic synonymous with the Japanese independent. The Zenith and Naoya Hida & Co. signatures, indices and markers are hand-engraved by master engraver Keisuke Kano and filled with deep blue, often seemingly black, Japanese urushi lacquer.
The hour and minute hands are machined from solid gold and then hand-polished, and the small seconds hand at 6 o’clock is made in heat-blued steel. The palette is quite restrained, but it complements the silver dial perfectly. Subtle yet highly sophisticated, the dial, with its engraved numerals and text, appears very much “alive”, as if it has just been finished, with the lacquer still fresh.
The star of the show, the re-engineered Calibre 135, is visible through the sapphire caseback. Originally developed by Ephrem Jobin in 1948 for observatory competitions, the movement became legendary thanks to its construction, designed entirely around chronometric performance, with an oversized balance wheel and large barrel. The competition specification 135-O version won more than 230 observatory prizes, including an unmatched five consecutive victories at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954.
The modern Calibre 135 remains faithful to this design but integrates contemporary technical improvements. The oversized balance still beats at 18,000 vibrations/hour and retains a Breguet overcoil hairspring and Charles Fleck’s distinctive double-arrow regulator. Power reserve has increased to 72 hours, a stop-seconds mechanism has been added, shock protection has been improved, and every movement is regulated to an accuracy of +/-2 seconds per day before receiving COSC certification. Finishing follows the latest G.F.J. models, with broad Geneva stripes, hand-chamfering, and a dark ruthenium treatment, with gold-coloured engravings. Overall, the movement is exemplary in its combination of historical authenticity and contemporary execution.
The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. is offered with three distinctly Japanese straps. Buyers receive a Himeji Kurozan leather strap finished with traditional urushi lacquer, a handcrafted Wagyu leather strap produced in Kyoto, and a deep indigo strap made from Japanese Kaihara denim. Each is fitted with a platinum pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J.
Limited to only 10 pieces, the Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with Naoya Hida & Co. gives one of the greatest chronometer movements ever created a fresh and highly compelling new expression and takes collaboration to a benchmark level. The price is CHF 58,900. More details at zenith-watches.com.
