Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. Cartier Unveils a Trilogy of Santos-Dumont with Precious Metal Bracelets
Cartier’s icon returns with its vintage credentials intact and supple new yellow gold and platinum bracelets.
As they say, necessity is the mother of invention. In 1904, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont approached Louis Cartier, complaining that pocket watches were impractical in flight – he needed both hands on the controls. Louis Cartier’s solution not only marked the birth of an icon but is also widely considered the first purpose-built men’s wristwatch. Since it was created specifically for a pioneering aviator, the flat, square-cased wristwatch is also regarded as the grandfather of the pilot’s watch. Flying 122 years ahead, Cartier unveils three precious metal editions of the Santos-Dumont, each paired with new, beautifully crafted gold or platinum mesh bracelets.
True pioneers of their age, Louis Cartier’s innate flair for design anticipated the clean, streamlined ethos of the Art Deco period, while the Brazilian aviator’s daredevil flying feats earned him several aviation firsts. The epitome of a stylish man of action, Santos-Dumont’s dapper dress sense – combining Panama hats with linen suits, wing collars and trousers with large turn-ups – became all the rage in Paris. The new Santos-Dumont models evoke these qualities with their vintage nods to the original 1904 watch, complemented by the stylish new bracelet.
Sharing specifications with the mid-size (referred to as LM in Cartier’s lexicon) limited-edition models released in 2020, honouring Santos-Dumont’s flying machines and the 2022 lacquered case editions, the new Santos-Dumont come in yellow gold or platinum cases measuring 43.5mm x 31.4mm x 7.3mm. Respecting the design language of Louis Cartier’s original watch, the rounded square case features screws on the bezel, and the gold models have a sapphire cabochon in the beaded winding crown, while the platinum model has a ruby. The slim cambered case middle is decorated with brushed finishes and a polished bevel, while the bezel gleams with its mirror-polished finish, matching the beaded crown.
Referencing the Maison’s made-to-measure watch bracelets from the 1920s, Cartier’s yellow gold and platinum bracelets write a new chapter in the Santos-Dumont saga. The new interchangeable mesh bracelet is composed of rows of 15 small links, each measuring 1.15mm, and a concealed folding clasp. With a total of 394 polished links, the refined, silky-smooth articulated bracelet gives the watch a more streamlined profile.
Like the original 1904 watch, the dial displays classic Roman numerals and a railway minutes track. The platinum and gold references have a silvery satin-finished dial with black Roman numerals and blue sword-shaped hands. However, the second yellow gold model jumps on the stone dial bandwagon with a gilded obsidian dial. A dark, glasslike volcanic rock from Mexico, the 0.3mm sliver of obsidian displays iridescent reflections due to the tiny air bubbles trapped in the material. To stand out against the obsidian, the applied Roman numerals, the minutes track and the hands are golden.
Beneath the sealed caseback is the calibre 430 MC, a Cartier-branded version of Piaget’s ultra-thin, manual-winding 430P calibre for the hours and minutes. With a height of just 2.15mm, the movement runs at a frequency of 21,600vph/3Hz and has a relatively short power reserve of 38 hours. While we await confirmation of the price, you can find more information at cartier.com.
