Omega Refreshes the Speedmaster 38mm Collection, Including a Moonwatch-Like Black No-Date (with Video)

When talking about the Speedmaster, most watch enthusiasts will immediately think about “The One”, the legendary Moonwatch Professional model. An evolution of the concept launched in 1957, the first watch worn on the Moon, and the only watch ever approved for NASA’s missions to the Moon, this iconic watch is only one element of a vast collection created by Omega, as there’s much more than this 42mm, black dial, hand-wound version. The Speedmaster has evolved from a watch to a wide range, featuring automatic models, bold openworked watches, and retro-inspired versions, as well as several sizes, including a so-called “Reduced” lineup. And this is the topic of today, as Omega launched a refreshed Speedmaster 38mm automatic collection, tastefully refined to even closer to the legendary Moonwatch (at least for one specific version), and an array of new colour schemes. 

The Smaller side of the range, the automatic Speedmaster Reduced, later the Speedmaster 38

Of course, the Moonwatch, the direct descendant of the watches worn by NASA pilots in space and on the Moon, is and will always be the reference point, the icon, the hero model when it comes to the Speedmaster. But as indicated by its “Professional” nomenclature, the classic Moonwatch is a highly focused watch with a utilitarian design and dial, a hand-wound movement, and a case that wears well but isn’t the smallest at 42mm in diameter. And even though the Moonwatch range has evolved over the years with dozens of more refined versions (full gold, white dial, two-tone or panda versions recently), it remains a fairly compromised watch. And with this in mind, Omega released back in 1988 a technically and proportionally drastically different version of the Speedmaster: the so-called Reduced watch, a 39mm model powered by an automatic movement based on an ETA base with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module.

The Speedmaster Automatic 39mm “Reduced” was produced from 1988 until 2010 and, besides the classic black dial model (which was basically meant to be the smaller version of the Moonwatch), the collection included several colourful iterations such as the “Schumacher” watches in bright colours, so-called racing dials, and countless editions in steel-and-gold, in solid gold or with panda or mother-of-pearl dials. In 2010, the model changed direction and not only became 38mm in diameter, but it also adopted a different movement (calibre 3304 based on the Valjoux 7753) with date and, overall, a far more feminine approach. Later, more racing-oriented versions were added to the collection.

In 2017, the Omega Speedmaster 38mm will undergo yet another update, as the brand introduced oval-shaped counters, a new two-piece bezel often paired with diamonds (the most recognisable being the so-called Cappuccino model), as well as a new movement, the Calibre 3330, this time a COSC-certified column-wheel chronograph with co-axial escapement. And while a handful of models were meant to be unisex, the collection was mostly intended for a feminine audience.

The new Speedmaster 38mm no-date

As said, the Omega Speedmaster 38mm is relaunched as a complete collection of 7 references, but we need first to speak about one specific model, the watch that is most likely going to attract the most attention: the no-date, steel-on-steel black dial version. This version marks the return of the original recipe of 1988, a downsized, automatic version of the Moonwatch. And it does so once again by taking most cues from its larger sister, the Professional Moonwatch. Clean, utilitarian, focused, classically designed but with a different, more convenient movement and a smaller diameter.

As said by Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of Omega, “The Speedmaster 38mm has always taken its cues from the Moonwatch (…) With this latest update, we’ve taken the Moonwatch inspiration even further.” Known as the reference 324.30.38.50.01.002 and the entry-level watch to the Speedmaster 38mm, it is housed in a redesigned case measuring 38mm in diameter, as you’d expect. The shape is classic Speedmaster, with an asymmetrical case, a crown and pushers partially recessed with the lateral guard, lyre-shaped twisted lugs and box-shaped sapphire crystal on top (a flat version, not the newest domed Hesalite like the FOiS). A positive aspect compared to a Moonwatch, water-resistance is rated at 100m.

Being powered by an integrated automatic movement means that this “new Speedmaster Reduced” version with a black dial features a crown and pushers that are aligned on the same level (the 1980s/90s model had those on two levels), but the downside is a substantial thickness of 14.75mm – about 1.5mm more than a Moonwatch sapphire sandwich. On the other hand, the lug-to-lug is very compact, at only 44.96mm, making this watch suitable for men and women alike. The back is solid steel (on all versions) and is stamped with a Speedmaster and Seahorse medallion.

Another evolution, directly brought from the Moonwatch, is the bracelet, which is based on the newest 5-link Nixon-style element. It features short, rounded links for a more vintage appeal and more flexibility, and its surfaces are brushed except for the two small inner links. It is closed by a folding clasp with a comfort release adjustment system (2 positions, 2.30mm).

Continuing on the external side, the bezel of this steel-on-black version is a classic aluminium insert with white, printed tachymeter scale and a layout that couldn’t be more classical: “dot over ninety” and “dot diagonal to 70” like on vintage and current Moonwatch models. And the dial follows suit, with a matte black base, printed hour markers in Super-LumiNova and white painted hands, all identical to a Moonwatch, including the return of classic round sub-dials, instead of the oval elements found in the collection since the 2017 update. Of course, the watch being smaller means that the sub-dials are closer to the edge and the dial is flat (not stepped like the Moonwatch), but it comes much closer to the original anyway. And yes, this version is a no-date one. Finally, the amount of text on the dial has been reduced to the minimum, for a cleaner design (only the Omega logo and name, and the Speedmaster mention).

Inside the case is the Calibre 3332. This movement, the no-date version of the well-known Calibre 3330, is based on the ETA development as the Longines L688, itself a deep evolution of the Valjoux 7753 movement with a column-wheel instead of the cam-operated mechanism. An automatic, integrated chronograph, it here features several delicacies to make it worthy of the Omega badge: it is chronometer-certified, it features a co-axial escapement, its balance is a free-sprung element paired with a silicon hairspring, and its power reserve has been elongated to 52 hours. That said, it is one of the rare movements by Omega not to be Master Chronometer certified.

Released as part of the permanent collection, the Omega Speedmaster 38mm black-on-steel will be priced at EUR 6,400 (incl. taxes) or CHF 5,100 (excl. taxes), making it the most accessible version of this new collection, but also from the entire Speedmaster range.

The Speedmaster 38mm Date, in 6 versions

So, this was just one portion of what’s new with the Speedmaster 38mm, as there are 6 other versions available. All are identical in specs to the aforementioned model, including the same dimensions (38mm x 14.75mm x 44.96mm), with the same water resistance, the same crystal and caseback, and the same bracelet.

The main difference is the presence of a date window at 6 o’clock, which means that these Speedmaster 38mm models have a different movement, the calibre 3330, which is carried over from the previous collection. Specifications are all identical. What’s not are the colours and materials, offering a wide choice, ranging from classic and unisex to more feminine or luxurious options. For instance, all have polished metal hands and applied markers. And all now have classic round sub-dials instead of oval ones.

First, the steel-on-steel models. The first version (ref. 324.30.38.50.02.003) features a warm grey aluminium bezel and an opaline silvery PVD-coated dial with Sedna Gold PVD hands and baton-style indexes that are filled with white Super-LumiNova. A mix of brown (chronograph indications) and Sedna Gold PVD hands appear in the sub-dials too. The second full steel version (ref. 324.30.38.50.04.001) somehow reminds us of the recent Milano Cortina 2026 edition, with a blue ceramic bezel with its tachymeter scale in white enamel and a lacquered white dial with blue CVD-coated hands and indexes (a colour also found on the date disc). These are respectively priced at EUR 6,600 and EUR 7,000.

We then move to more precious, two-tone versions. The reference 324.20.38.50.02.001 relies on a steel middle case with polished 18k Moonshine gold for the bezel, the crown and the pushers. The bezel is here a green aluminium bezel ring and a yellow gold tachymeter scale, paired with a silvery opaline PVD-coated dial and Moonshine Gold PVD hands and baton-style indexes. The inner links of the bracelet are here crafted in 18k Moonshine Gold. It is priced at EUR 11,500.

The second two-tone edition (ref. 324.20.38.50.02.002) brings back the signature “cappuccino” style to the collection, with polished 18k Sedna Gold elements for the bezel, crown, pusher and the bracelet’s inner links. The aluminium bezel’s insert is rendered in mid-brown, matching the sub-dials and complementing the ivory-toned dial and the Sedna Gold PVD hands and indexes. It is priced at EUR 11,500.

Last but not least are two versions with diamond-set bezels (52 diamonds, totalling 1.53 carats), housed in stainless steel cases. The first model (ref. 324.15.38.50.03.001) features an ice blue PVD-coated dial, while the second model (ref. 324.15.38.50.05.001) comes with a white mother-of-pearl dial. Both feature rhodium-plated hands and baton-shaped indexes. These are respectively priced at EUR 12,100 and EUR 12,900.

For more details, please visit omegawatches.com.