Monochrome Watches
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Buying Guide

The 5 Best Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2023

A week on the lakeshore has shown us a ton of impressive new watches, and these are some of the best.

| By Robin Nooy | 5 min read |

After another week of a smorgasbord of watch news presented in the heart of Geneva, it’s time to have a first look back at what we think are the watches that stood out the most. There are a few trends that could be identified, such as the mix of black and gold in some watches (H. Moser & Cie, Bvlgari, Doxa) and blue finished movements (Armin Strom, MB&F). So, with that in mind, and after some discussions within the MONOCHROME editorial team, here are our top 5 watches from this year’s Geneva Watch Days.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Carbon & Gold

As said, the combination of black and gold was popular among several brands, including Bvlgari. The brand decked out its wonderful Octo Finissimo Automatic and Perpetual Calendar in forged carbon and rose gold for an intense look on the wrist. The simpler of the two comes with rose gold applied indices, a rose gold mainplate and a plaque set in the baseband. Pretty much everything else is done in carbon, including the full bracelet. Priced at EUR 29,000 it’s not cheap, but it looks oh so good!

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Quick Facts – Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Carbon Gold – 103779 – 40 mm carbon case, 6.90mm thick, transparent caseback; polished pink gold crown with black ceramic insert – water-resistant to 100m – carbon dial with gold-coloured hands and indexes – mechanical Manufacture ultra-thin movement with automatic winding via a platinum micro-rotor – Caliber BVL 138 with small seconds, 2.23 mm thick, 36.60 mm in diameter, 21,600 V/H, 60-hour power reserve – carbon bracelet with 3-blade folding buckle – EUR 29,000

Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité

Czapek is one of those brands that seemingly always knows how to capture our minds and hearts, and the new Place Vendôme Complicité is no different. Featuring a dual-regulator movement developed with Bernhard Lederer, it’s a stunning watch, both technically and aesthetically. The complex self-balancing mechanism is on full display under the boxed sapphire crystal. It comes in two variations for now, both limited to 50 pieces and costing EUR 85,000.

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Quick Facts – 41,8mm x 14,80 – white or rose gold case, brushed & polished – hollow lugs – boxed sapphire crystal – sapphire crystal caseback – 50m water-resistant – blue or grey dial – circular-grained hour & minute track – openworked hands – power reserve indicator – Calibre 8, manual wound – dual-regulator with differential – 21,600vph – 72h power reserve – alligator leather strap – limited to 50 pieces each – EUR 85,000

Armin Strom One Week first edition

Armin Strom decided to bring back one of its most celebrated watches with the One Week First Edition. This takes the concept of the original One Week, launched in 2010, and presents it in a brand-new package. The shaped stainless steel case is 41mm in diameter and 10.60mm in height. This limited First Edition has a mainplate finished in an ice blue tone, and puts the hours and minutes hand smack in the middle, whereas previously it was just a touch to the left. The movement exposes pretty much all its mechanics, including the very subtle and almost secret power reserve display. It’s limited to 25 pieces which are exclusively sold through Armon Strom’s e-commerce platform for a price of EUR 37,000.

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Quick Facts – 41mm x 10.60mm – stainless steel case – sapphire crystal front & back – 100m water-resistant – black minute ring & small seconds subdial – central hour and minute hands – Calibre AMR21, in-house manually wound movement – double-barrel mechanism for 7 days of power reserve – 28,800vph – blued grained finished mainplate – openworked construction with finger bridges – limited to 25 pieces exclusively available online – integrated stainless steel bracelet – EUR 37,000

Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date

Frederique Constant introduced its 31st in-house calibre in 35 years during Geneva Watch Days, which is a very impressive feat. The Classic Power Reserve Big Date simple yet elegant-looking case. It’s presented in steel with blue or silver dials, rose gold with a grey dial and even platinum with a blued meteorite dial. The in-house movement shows you not only the time but also a big date, power reserve and moon phase indication. Prices range from EUR 4,795 to EUR 29,995 depending on the material.

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Quick Facts – 40mm x 12,19mm – stainless steel, rose gold or platinum case (polished) – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – sunray-brushed silver or blue (steel), dark grey (gold) or blued meteorite dial (platinum) – polished applied indices & hands – Calibre FC-735, in-house automatic – hours, minutes, seconds, big date, power reserve, moonphase – leather strap with folding buckle – EUR 4,795 (steel) – EUR 17,995 (rose gold) – EUR 29,995 (platinum)

Arnold & Son DSTB

The one-second stepping seconds hand, otherwise known as a dead-beat second, seconde morte or in the case of Arnold & Son the true beat seconds, is a fascinating display of mechanical watchmaking. Arnold & Son takes it to new levels with the latest iteration of the DSTB (Dial Side True Beat). The mechanism is fully exposed on the dial, while the hours and minutes are pushed to the side. New for 2023 is a more compact case in platinum or rose gold and a reworked movement. It is a limited edition of 88 pieces in gold, retailing for CHF 42,600, or 38 pieces in platinum, retailing for CHF 54,400.

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Quick Facts -42mm x 12.95mm – red gold or platinum case, polished – domed sapphire crystal – crystal caseback – 30m water-resistant – sunray brushed salmon pink or deep blue dial – dial-side mounted true beat seconds mechanism – off-centred white opal dial – Calibre A&S6203, automatic – 28,800vph – 55h power reserve – hours, minutes, true beat seconds – alligator leather strap with gold or platinum pin buckle – limited to 88 pieces in red gold & 38 pieces in platinum – CHF 42,600 in gold, CHF 54,400 in platinum

3 responses

  1. Ridiculous pricing as expected. It must be getting more and more difficult to justify them over time.

  2. For those who can afford them they’re not timepieces but comities . When the downturn comes a poor investment.

  3. Funny how this selection navigates all territory from playthings for the well to do to the tasteless, the gauche, and finally to one normal watch that one could actually buy and wear. Aside from the Frederique Constant, there’s nothing here for me, not even if they sold it to me for 400 or 4000 Euros.

    I wish more people would understand the art of making something complicated look natural, effortless and deceptively simple, rather than taking something relatively simple and make it look as outlandish and complex as they can.


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