Not all images were able to load for printing. Please close the print window and try again. The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed J.N. Shapiro, American Artistry Meets Swiss Chronometry
Zenith joins forces with indie watchmaker J.N. Shapiro for a beautifully detailed interpretation of the G.F.J., with decorative techniques applied to the dial and the movement.
Zenith’s G.F.J. collection is home to one of the manufacture’s most celebrated movements and is becoming an interesting platform for creative collaborations, bringing together independent watchmakers and craftspeople. Following its first Double Signed edition with watchmaker Naoya Hida & Co., which brought a distinctly Japanese touch to the collection, with a solid silver dial, hand-engraved numerals and blue urushi lacquer, Zenith now looks west, partnering with California-based indie watchmaker J.N. Shapiro for a new interpretation of the G.F.J. Calibre 135. With this second edition, the emphasis is on traditional engine-turning, or guilloché, and a decorative movement finish rooted in the history of American watchmaking.
Zenith x Shapiro
Founded by Joshua Shapiro in 2018, J.N. Shapiro began in a home workshop in Los Angeles. A former school principal and US history teacher, Shapiro taught himself to operate the specialised rose-engine and straight-line machines used to create fine geometric patterns. What started as a personal project has evolved into a serious indie watchmaking operation, with its own proprietary calibre 26 and the Resurgence, a watch that represents the brand’s ambition to revive and advance American watchmaking. Guilloché remains important to its identity, and this collaboration brings Shapiro’s expertise to one of Zenith’s most historically important movements.
The G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed J.N. Shapiro is presented in a 39.15mm rose gold case measuring 10.5mm thick, with a 45.75mm lug-to-lug. Its proportions and overall appearance follow the G.F.J. series design, with a sapphire crystal on the front and an exhibition caseback revealing the decorated movement. Water-resistance is 50m.
A guilloche dial hand-cut in California
This new G.F.J. immediately strikes with its elaborate silver dial, crafted at J.N. Shapiro’s California atelier. It is very different from the restrained dial of the Naoya Hida edition. Here, it combines three different engine-turned motifs, each executed using traditional rose-engine and straight-line machinery. The outer section features a barleycorn pattern, a classic guilloché decoration that creates a rhythmic, repeating texture. Moving towards the centre, the pattern changes to a basketweave motif, introducing a more complex interlacing effect. The small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock features Shapiro’s signature Infinity Weave, an interpretation of basketweave in which the pattern repeats within itself.
The three textures and their changing patterns catch the light differently depending on the viewing angle. Applied 18k rose gold rings frame the different sections, and matching hour markers and hands offer a warm contrast against the silver surface. The two signatures, Zenith and J.N. Shapiro, appear on an applied rose gold plate, accompanied by the G.F.J. initials.
The legendary chronometer Calibre 135, with damaskeening decoration
Obviously, the watch is powered by the Calibre 135, a movement with a remarkable history. Developed by Zenith watchmaker Ephrem Jobin and introduced in 1948, it was designed for observatory chronometry competitions. The competition-grade Calibre 135-O secured five consecutive first-place victories at the Neuchâtel Observatory between 1950 and 1954, and is one of the great chronometer movements of its era.
In 2025, Zenith re-engineered the calibre for the modern G.F.J. collection, retaining its essential construction while introducing contemporary technical improvements. In its latest version, it operates at 18,000 vibrations/hour and delivers a 72-hour power reserve. It features a large variable-inertia balance with a Breguet overcoil, Charles Fleck’s characteristic double-arrow regulator, and a stop-seconds mechanism. The movement is COSC-certified, with regulation to ±2 seconds per day.
For this new double-signed edition, not just the dial but the movement also receives attention from Shapiro, making this collaboration more extensive. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the hand-wound Calibre 135 features a distinctive decoration known as damaskeening. This technique, historically found on American pocket watches, is a combination of traditional Côtes de Genève and guilloché, creating a wave-like pattern on the bridges. The bridges are finished with rhodium plating, adding a contemporary touch.
Straps, availability & price
The new G.F.J. Double Signed comes with three leather straps: brown Cordovan, beige nubuck alligator and black calf leather. All are fitted with an 18k rose gold pin buckle engraved with the G.F.J. initials. An 18k rose gold bracelet is also available upon request. The Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Double Signed with J.N. Shapiro is a limited edition of 25 pieces, priced at CHF 68,900. More details at zenith-watches.com.
