Last week, when we reviewed the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar with its sexy, sleek grey dial, we asked whether Vacheron Constantin was getting hipper in its old age? Looking at what the world’s oldest manufacture has pulled off today, a Complete Calendar with an openworked dial, it seems like some of the more complicated models in the traditional Traditionnelle family are getting a 21st-century makeover. However, it’s not the first Traditionnelle model with an openworked dial and sapphire crystal peepholes. In 2019, Vacheron flexed its horological muscles with its impressive Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar with a 65-day power reserve, an openworked section of the dial and radically contemporary looks. Taking the edgy avant-garde aesthetics of the Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar one step further, the brand unveils its latest openworked sapphire dial version of its classic calendar watch, the new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface available in 18k pink or white gold cases.
Not as sophisticated as a perpetual calendar but still very ‘complete’, a triple calendar or complete calendar displays the date, day and month and requires an adjustment five times a year (at the end of months with 30 days and February). Vacheron Constantin’s complete calendar, popular in the 1940s and 1950s, was revisited with compelling vintage flair in the Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 & 1948 models of 2017.
Although the aesthetics couldn’t be more different, the latest openworked model is actually closer to the historical models in its layout. Compared to the closed dial version we reviewed last week, with its day and month apertures positioned on the far edges of the dial, this model has placed the day and month closer together, just below noon. However, the date function is still relayed on the periphery and indicated with a blackened gold pointer hand with a white crescent-shaped tip.
While the round stepped case with its fluted caseback and features like the railway minutes track and the sharp, gold faceted Dauphine hands recall the more classical traits of the Traditionnelle family, the sapphire crystal elements on the dial revealing the darkened movement couldn’t be more contemporary.
The grey opaline flange, which hosts the date and a railway minutes track, is also used to anchor the beautifully faceted white or pink gold indices, with a double index at 12 o’clock. To accommodate the sapphire discs bearing the days of the week and month, the indices at 2 and 10 o’clock have been truncated. Spanning the top half of the dial from 9 to 3 o’clock is a solid grey area decorated with a ribbed guilloché pattern. The two rounded indentations in the slate grey plate house the two transparent sapphire discs with the black calendar indications that are highlighted against a white background.
The precision moon phase indicator of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is also given a makeover and features two realistic transferred depictions of the Moon thinly veiled by a translucent sapphire disc.
Thanks to the transparent architecture, the different components of the movement can be appreciated dial side with the bright brass gear train contrasting with the grey NAC-coated anthracite bridges and mainplate with their vertical brushed finishing.
Calibre 2460 QCL
Calibre 2460 QCL/2 is an evolution of calibre 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron and granted the prestigious Geneva Seal. With 312 components, the movement drives the triple calendar indications and the precision moon phase and features a stop-seconds mechanism for accurate time setting. The moon phase display will require only one correction every 122 years.
Turning over the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, the white gold caseback has a sapphire crystal window to view the movement with its openworked 22k gold rotor decorated with brushed areas and a polished Maltese cross. Beating at 4Hz, the power reserve is of 40 hours. The anthracite colour of the movement is the result of a NAC galvanic surface treatment and displays the refined finishings associated with the Maison, including Geneva stripes on the chamfered bridges and circular graining on the base plate.
Both models are fitted with a grey alligator strap with a calfskin lining and secured to the wrist with a pink or white gold pin buckle.
Availability & Price
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface 4020T is not limited and retails for CHF 47,900 for both the white and rose gold versions. For more information, please consult www.vacheron-constantin.com.