Pre-SIHH 2018 – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine”
It seems that Vacheron Constantin’s current favorite complication might well be the triple calendar (or full calendar, or complete calendar… which all refer to the same complication). Brought back to center stage with the stunning Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942 in steel and its gold sibling, the Triple Calendrier 1948, two superbly vintage-inspired pieces, the elegant calendar display is now integrated into a more modern – and highly precious – watch, as a preview of the SIHH 2018. Please meet the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine“.
Despite using the same complication as the recently introduced Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 & 1948, Vacheron didn’t just take the same movement and encase it into this new Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine”. It is a bit more complex than that. In fact, the complications used in this new watch are the only common point here. All the rest, from the case, the dial, the way the complications are displayed and even the entire movement, all is new. No confusion possible.
As mentioned in the introduction, Vacheron Constantin is bringing back one of the most classical displays possible, a specific type of calendar that has been widely used in the 1940s and 1950s, the Complete/Triple calendar. This complication can be defined as an indication of the three main pieces of information needed to read an entire date: day of the week, date of the month and month. Classically, such Complete/Triple calendars rely on a date displayed on the periphery of the dial and pointed with a central hand, as well as two windows (day and month), usually located in the upper half of the dial. This was the case with the Historiques Triple Calendar 1942 & 1948 and so does this Traditionnelle Complete Calendar… with a different style though.
While relatively classical, the display of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar differs in the positioning of the day and month windows. Also, in addition to the calendar is a moon-phase indication, which is shown at the classical 6 o’clock position. The rest of the dial is both elegant and relatively modern, with straight faceted indexes, a railroad track for the minutes and dauphine hands for the hours and minutes. The date is pointed by a blued hand, in order to avoid any confusion. This display is powered by a movement entirely different from the recent Historique Triple Calendar (which use the hand-wound calibre 4400), as here we found the self-winding calibre 2460, a movement that is used as a base in several watches of the brand (the World-Time, the Copernicus, the Overseas WT or the Harmony Triple Calendar).
This Calibre 2460 QCL is, of course, entirely developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin and adorned with the Poinçon de Genève. Equipped with a 22 carats gold oscillating weight, it beats at the frequency of 4 Hz and ensures a 40-hour power reserve. The remarkably accurate moon-phase indication requires just one adjustment every 122 years (compared with three years for a simple moon phase). Its decoration is refined and elegant, as always with VC.
One of the main highlights of this Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar “Excellence Platine” is the materials used… Indeed, the “Excellence Platine” is something quite special at Vacheron, as it uses platinum, one of the rarest and most complex materials, all over. Indeed, not only for the case but also for the sand-blasted dial, the moon disc, the folding clasp and even the topstitching on the dark blue alligator leather strap. The 41mm diameter case has a so-called “étagé” design, with straight lugs, angular shapes and the traditional fluted case-back of this collection.
The main attraction certainly is the dial, which is crafted from a single plate of platinum. The sand-blasted finish offers both a matte look and some metallic shine in certain light conditions. This dial is bearing the secret “Pt950” inscription between 4 and 5 o’clock.
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Excellence Platine 4010T will be a limited edition of 100 pieces, with a retail price of EUR 69,000. More details on www.vacheron-constantin.com.
Technical Specifications – Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Excellence Platine 4010T
- Case: 41mm diameter x 10.72mm thick – 950 platinum, polished – sapphire crystal on both sides – 30m water resistant
- Dial: solid 950 platinum, Sand-blasted – 18K white gold applied hour-markers and Platinum moon-phase disc
- Movement: Calibre 2460 QCL, in-house – Hallmark of Geneva – self-winding – 4Hz frequency – 40h power reserve – hours, minutes, seconds, date, day of the week, month, age of the moon
- Strap: blue alligator leather with platinum folding clasp
- Reference: 4010T/000P-B345
- Limited Edition: 100 pieces
- Price: EUR 69,000
My favorite style of calendar, with the handed date. This is not a modern watch however. It is the epitome of traditional, with more expensive accoutrements. A lovely “resto-mod” in automotive parlance. I am looking forward to seeing it on the wrist, as its size may be a primary attribute.
It’s funny, I was looking at the pictures thinking, “I wish the day and date windows were reversed in position” then I read this “While relatively classical, the display of the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar differs in the positioning of the day and month windows.”
lol. Does that mean a previous version exists the way I’d like it?