Back in September 2016 we told you about the launch of the revamped Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. An update to one of the brand’s more iconic models, the new ref. 5000T boasted a re-designed dial and an improved movement. At the time however it was only available in a platinum case, unlike its predecessor which was also available in rose gold. At SIHH 2017, Vacheron Constantin completes this evolution with the official unveiling of the ref. 5000T-000R, featuring a gorgeous 18K pink gold case.
The Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar brings together arguably two of the most practical – and sought after – complications within one highly attractive package and has been a mainstay of collectors for years. Presented in a 43mm x 12.94 case – now in your choice of platinum or 18k 5N pink gold – it is a stunning exercise in refinement both technically and aesthetically.
As with the platinum edition released last year the updates to the new pink gold version are also quite subtle, especially from an aesthetic standpoint. In fact, at first glance you’d be forgiven for not noticing any changes at all; 22k white gold dial, hands all still the same color/metal, highly expressive moon-phase still crafted from 22k gold and an overall layout that is virtually unchanged. Look a little closer however and you will see some clever little touches that not only enhance usability but also the overall attractiveness of the dial. For example the standard chronograph track on the periphery of the dial has now been replaced with a tachymetric scale, with its indexes now placed on the outer boundary of the scale as opposed to the inner, as was the case with the previous model.
That’s not to say Vacheron should have made any rash changes to the design of the dial of the Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. After all, this is certainly one of the more legible and tastefully designed Chrono QP’s on the market and so trying to do anything to fancy to the dial would have only led to disaster. Plus, as a direct competitor to Patek Philippe’s 5270 refinement is the name of the game.
On the other side of the watch however things get a little more interesting as a sapphire case back reveals the inner workings of the Caliber 1142 QP. As we previously discussed in our article on the Platinum version, Vacheron still relies on Lemania ébauches for the base of the Caliber 1142 QP however with some in-house modifications/improvements. The most noticeable one of course is the addition of a perpetual calendar module, whilst the frequency has also been adjusted to 3Hz instead of the historical 2.5Hz, purportedly to increase reliability and shock resistance. Finally, the Caliber 1142 QP features the Geneva Seal, certifying the high level of finishing of both the caliber itself as well the finishing of the watch as a whole, an additional accolade absent from the previous reference.
Presented on a brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap complete with a matching 18k 5N pink gold folding clasp, the watch is delivered with a presentation box that doubles as a watch winder as well as a corrector pen. Not that you’ll have much use for the latter as the movement has been designed to not need any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100. Official pricing of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in pink gold will be confirmed during SIHH 2017. www.vacheron-constantin.com.