The Traditionnelle collection by Vacheron Constantin is the most classic expression of watchmaking by the old Maison. And as such, it comprises pretty much all possible complications, ranging from simple time-only pieces up to tourbillons, perpetual calendars or even a grande complication. There’s one watch that sits right in the middle, with a mix of elegance and complexity, without falling in the ultra-high-end category, and that is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar. Already available in full platinum (dial included) and in rose gold, this nicely balanced piece is now coming back in white gold, with an added dosage of modernity thanks to a slate grey dial.
If you consider calendar watches, you have various levels. First is the classic time-and-date, then follows the so-called complete calendar and then the more complex annual and perpetual calendars – more details in our dedicated technical article here. The beauty of the complete or full calendar, as we see today with this new Vacheron Constantin, isn’t specifically on the mechanical side – it doesn’t take into account the different lengths of the months and thus needs corrections – but more on how brands can create complex and desirable layouts. A popular complication during the 1940s and 1950s, the complete calendar have often been in the shadows of its more complex brothers, but still is a nice complication to have… at least when designed right.
And Vacheron Constantin, with its Traditionnelle Complete Calendar, has done this quite right, indeed. What’s new with this edition, the reference 4010T, is the combination of materials and colours. In addition to the warm and bright rose gold edition, there’s now this darker, edgier edition in white gold. The case still measures a respectable 41mm in diameter, yet with a fairly controlled height of 10.7mm. The design is an all-time classic, with all attributes of the Traditionnelle collection, meaning fully polished surfaces, angular shapes, thin bezel and straight lugs. The caseback, with sapphire crystal, is decorated with a fluted motif.
In addition to being crafted in white gold, most of the contemporary touch of this new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar comes from the velvet-finished slate grey dial. With its contrasting applied markers and hands in white gold, it’s more modern and sleeker than the rose gold edition. Other than that, it retains the handsome balance of the model, with central hand for the date, with a peripheral date track. A moon phase sits at 6 o’clock and the day-of-the-week and month indications are originally postioned around the rim of the dial rather than in the centre, freeing up space for the logo and the moon, making this display lighter, less packed than most complete calendars. Time is indicated by bi-facetted Dauphine-style hands and baton-type hour markers, with a railway minute track.
The Traditionnelle complete calendar watch is powered by Calibre 2460 QCL/1. This in-house movement, with automatic winding, is certified by the Hallmark of Geneva, as a testimony of both its fine execution and precision. The movement runs at a 4Hz frequency, is equipped with a stop seconds mechanism and stores 40 hours of power reserve. The moon phase requires only one correction every 122 years. The decoration includes Geneva stripes, bevelled bridges and a 22k gold openworked oscillating weight with a design inspired by the brand’s Maltese cross emblem.
The new Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar White Gold (ref. 4010T/000G-B740) is worn on a black Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by an 18K white gold pin buckle. It is presented as part of the permanent collection and will be priced at EUR 40,800. More details at www.vacheron-constantin.com.