Monochrome Watches
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Recap

The Best New Indie Watches From Geneva Watch Week 2026

Independent watchmaking at its finest and most versatile.

calendarCreated with Sketch. | ic_dehaze_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. By Robin Nooy | ic_query_builder_black_24pxCreated with Sketch. 6 min read |

Independent watchmaking has always been a crucible of creativity and doing things off the beaten path, and that’s exactly the reason why we love the genre so much. From industry legends and trailblazers such as Daniel Roth, Urwerk and MB&F, to the newest generation of stars, the indie watchmaking scene is truly unique. And while we sometimes think we have seen it all, there’s always the next fabulous watch around the corner. Hot on the heels of the Geneva Watch Week (Watches & Wonders and all of the other stuff that was on show in Geneva!), we thought it was a good idea to see what’s what and go through some of the best new watches by independent makers.

Ressence Type 11

From the early days, Ressence has done things differently. Very differently, in fact, as it relies on a unique display of orbital indications that are constantly in motion. Across the board, the collection is as coherent and can be, offering a wide range of shapes, indications, colours and detail. The latest is the Type 11, which sees Ressence step away from the ETA base calibres upon which they build their unique ROCS system, now bringing the brand’s first-ever proprietary movement to the table. Designed by Ressence and produced by Concepto, one of the biggest plus points is the extended power reserve of 60 hours. The Type 11 comes in grade 5 titanium and with either a Pine (green), Sky (blue) or Latte (off-white) coloured dial. Three eccentric satellites indicate the time, with a clever ball-bearing system showing you the remaining level of energy in the mainspring. Deliveries are expected to start in May this year, and the Type 11 retails for CHF 23,000.

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For more information, please head over to our introduction story here.

Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller

Laurent Ferrier bonds two sides of its independent watchmaking into a single and very desirable watch called the Sport Traveller. Combining the style of the brilliant Sport Auto with the practicality of the brand’s GMT indication from the Classic Traveller, the result works wonders. Machined from titanium, of course, the case is every so slightly larger than the aforementioned Sport Auto yet still wears just as comfortably. The pushers on the left allow you to set the dual time display in one-hour increments in both directions, making light work of travelling across time zones and adjusting your watch accordingly. The dial is pure Laurent Ferrier; restraint, yet full of character. The anthracite base is given a subtle crosshair in light grey, with green Super-LumiNova in the Assegai-shaped hands and applied markers. Around the back, you’re treated to an unimpeded view of the new Calibre LF275.01, which swaps out the natural escapement as used in the Classic Traveller for a more robust Swiss lever escapement to fit the globetrotting lifestyle of the Sport Traveller. The price is CHF 61,000.

For more information, please check out our in-depth video review here.

Rexhep Rexhepi rrchf chronograph flyback

Regarded as one of the most talented independent watchmakers of the last decade or so, Rexhep Rexhepi recently pulled the covers off yet another showstopper, the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. It’s not often we see a completely in-house developed chronograph movement from an independent watchmaker, so you can imagine our excitement! The new RRCHF has a platinum or rose gold case measuring 38.8mm by 9.7mm, with a stepped bezel, rounded rectangular pushers and elongated curved lugs. The dial is either a blue-green Grand Feu enamel for the platinum one, or Grand Feu black enamel for the rose gold RRCHF, with semi-translucent inserts for the subdials. Time is read in an offset hour and minutes subdial up top, with a running seconds indicator in the bottom left. For the flyback chronograph, you have a 30-minute counter in the bottom right, and a central chronograph seconds hand. As in pretty much anything Rexhep does, the symmetry on both sides of the watch is striking, and the finishing is absolutely superb. The price is set at CHF 150,000 regardless of the case material.

For more information, please head over to our hands-on review here.

De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon

While unmistakably a De Bethune, even from across the room, the brand’s new DB25Vxs Silver Moon offers a renewed and unique take on the classical moon phase indication. Positioned at noon, the spherical display shows you the light and dark side of the moon as it goes through its 29-day (-ish) cycle, set in a blued titanium and star-studded base. The centre section shows a charming barleycorn or grain d’orge guilloché motif for decoration, and the outer ring carries a characteristic minute track with dual digits at every-five minute increment, and three-block markings in between. The large hour numerals have a slight lean to them, adding to the appeal of the design. Time is indicated by two gold hands from the centre, and that’s about it. Turning the watch over reveals more of De Bethune’s typical style, with a blued titanium balance wheel, twin barrels, and ample amounts of decoration. All this is set in a fully polished titanium case with integrated hollowed lugs, as we have become accustomed to. This one will set you back CHF 82,000 excl. VAT.

For more information, please check our introductory story here.

Sylvain Pinaud tourbillon 30-second

Following his expressive chronograph debut in 2018, French-bron independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud followed up with the beautiful Origin in 2021. Earning recognition from his peers, the GPHG, and even more so from collectors the world over, Pinaud returns to the spotlight with the new Tourbillon 30-Second. Using the Origin as the canvas for his latest creation, the Tourbillon 30-Seconds is regulated by a tourbillon escapement positioned at 6′. But it’s not just about adding the tourbillon, as where most rotate once per minute, this one goes twice as fast, hence the name. The movement also incorporates a zero-reset mechanism, making setting the watch down to the second a breeze. The offset dial has a sector-like layout, with the seconds subdial cutting into it at 9′. The movement itself reveals quite a lot of its inner workings through the large openworked top bridge, which looks rather splendid. You can see the backside of the tourbillon, the running gear, the twin barrels and a lot more! Only 30 pieces will be made across three editions, with a price tag of CHF 180,000.

For more information, please head over to our introductory story here.

Armin Strom minute repeater resonance 12.59 first edition

Ever since the brand first mastered the phenomenon of Resonance, we’ve been fascinated by what they do with it. With the new Minute Repeater Resonance 12.59 First Edition, they have yet again outdone themselves by presenting layer upon layer on what is already a very complex watch. The openworked dial reveals the twin oscillators and resonance clutch spring in the bottom half and is surrounded by a set of four gongs with the hammers to strike them at noon, to sound off the time on demand. And best of all, it features a selectable 12:59 ‘party’ mode, which gives the longest striking sequence possible. It’s also smaller, thinner and more refined than previous editions of the Minute Repeater Resonance, which is always pleasant. Just 25 of these “watchmaking lessons on the wrist” will be made, and the price is set at CHF 390,000.

For more information, please head over to our hands-on review here.

https://monochrome-watches.com/recap-best-new-independent-watches-geneva-watch-week-ressence-laurent-ferrier-de-bethune-sylvain-pinaud-rexhep-rexhepi-armin-strom/

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