The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel
Traditional skills, a complex movement and refined materials.
Most might picture H. Moser & Cie. as a slightly irreverent, fresh and contemporary take on haute horlogerie, with colourful and original watches that have become quite unmistakable. But H. Moser & Cie. is more than just cool designs; it is also a legitimate integrated manufacture that has the capacity to craft a watch and its movement almost entirely. The brand has the skills and knowledge, and sometimes it wants to showcase this in a slightly more discreet, refined and traditional way. Hence the Heritage line, a collection that pays tribute to Heinrich Moser, the man behind the name. And the latest watch to join the range is this elegant, complex and refined Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel.
In creating the Heritage line, H. Moser & Cie. took inspiration from the watches that evoke the brand’s history, and specifically those dating from the early 20th century. Behind the name Heritage are watches that are inspired by pocket watches converted to wristwatches in the early 1920s using fine attachments on a soft, round case. While there are also pilot-inspired models, such as this Centre Seconds watch, the brand has decided to bring back some design cues of recent years. Combined with high-end materials and traditional decoration techniques, the result is an oddly classical watch with a lot of personality.
The case of this Heritage Perpetual Calendar measures 42mm in diameter and is made of 18k white gold. As mentioned, its design is reminiscent of converted pocket watches and features thin wire lugs. The most noticeable element is, without a doubt, the decoration used on the casebands, which are engraved with a geometric pattern and coated in blue. The watch also features an oversized notched crown, again reinforcing its old-school design.
The dial also showcases traditional skills and is made of Grand Feu enamel with a typically Moser fumé blue colour – with a slight dégradé effect. The display is clear and elegant, with crisp white Roman numerals and railroad tracks, as well as thin polished swallow-tail hands. Despite being a QP, the dial of the Moser Heritage remains extremely clean and uncluttered, revealing only the most fundamental features. In addition to the central hours/minutes, there is a small seconds at 6 o’clock, a discreet power reserve at 9 o’clock and a large date at 3 o’clock… Where are the calendar indications? Well, the months are displayed via a small central hand pointing to one of the 12 hours markers, and the leap year is relegated to the back of the watch.
Visible behind the sapphire caseback is Moser’s well-known calibre HMC 800. Simple and ingenious, this hand-wound movement can be adjusted forwards or backwards at any time of day. Thanks to the “Flash Calendar” system, the date changes instantaneously at midnight, taking into account months with 30 or 31 days and the leap years. It is also powerful, with 7 days of autonomy and finely decorated with Moser double stripes, screwed gold chatons and polished bevels.
Availability & Price
The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel will be a limited edition of 20 pieces. It is priced at CHF 99,000 and can be ordered directly from the brand’s website.
For more details, please visit www.h-moser.com.
Oh yes. When Moser goes conservative they do it so well. I’ll never be able to afford it, but it’s vying for my favourite perpetual calendar on the market. *chef’s kiss*
Ubelievable expensive, since the regular perpetual calendar costs no more than 30.000$.
If it didn’t have Roman numerals , and it was 4mm smaller, it would be number one dress watch pick . (Fantasy, of course).
My only complaint is that the month pointer at the center should be a bit bigger. I understand getting rid of the arrow format since this piece is intended to be more formal, but that pointer is just way too small. Otherwise it is a beauty!
Baton markers would be nice, but we’d be making it too much like an Endeavour QP, unless…Arabic?
The more discreet power-reserve marker is something I hope they put on the Endeavour, though – balances better with the date.
Just wow their touch is just so elegant