When saw the first pre-Baselworld release of the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black, we were impressed and felt there would be a huge interest in it within the watch-world. Both the photos and technical specifications attracted us. This feeling was confirmed once we get our hands on with it during Baselworld. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar was one of the few watches that created a real consensus among Monochrome’s editorial team. The brand Schaffausen (alongside IWC) comes now with a new limited edition of its QP, even more precious, the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden.
H. Moser & Cie knows how to make simple watches complicated, such as the Venturer Small Second, but also how to impart simplicity to a highly complicated timepiece. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is certainly one of the simplest, if not the simplest QP on the market. It comes with only a few functions on the dial and keeps the reading focused on essential indications: hours, minutes, small seconds, oversized date, power reserve and a very clever and discreet month hand.
Usually, perpetual calendars come with 3 sub-dials to indicate the day of the week, the date and the month – plus a window or a small hand for the leap year. When you look at the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, you won’t immediately mark the complicated movement. The (oversized) date comes in a classical window at 3. And that’s the only feature that is really noticeable, because the month is cleverly indicated by a small central hand that uses the 12 indexes. The leap year, a function that is not essential on a daily basis by any means, is displayed on the movement side. This is for sure an intelligent and discreet watch.
The movement conception is also intelligent. It features a ‘Double Pull Crown’ which allows a correction of the date by pressing the crown (without disturbing the time setting), and precise time-setting by pulling it (with a hack-second system) – this grants an instant jump to 00.00h for the date, an adjustment either forward or backward at any time of the day, 7 days of power reserve and the H. Moser interchangeable escapement beating at 18.000vph.
What’s new in this 10-piece limited edition is, firstly, the movement made of solid gold. All the bridges and plates are realized in gold and finished by hand: hand frost engraving (one of the hardest finishes to achieve) and polished bevelled angles. The rest of the movement is similar to the Black Edition, with oversized screwed gold chatons and a very pleasant layout. The dial is also made of solid gold, with H. Moser’s distinctive sunburst and fumé finish (which brings out a darker colour on the sides).
The 41mm case is still made of dark grey DLC coated titanium, with mirror polished finish and a curved caseback. As with the Black Edition, this Black Golden limited edition will have a very comfortable feeling on the wrist and nice metallic reflections on the case. But the introduction of gold lends some extra exclusivity to an already rare watch. The new colour combination is somehow a bit less discreet and looks more dressed but it is, once again, really attractive.
The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Golden Edition is limited to 10 pieces and will be available for € 75.700 Euros at the end of July 2014.
- Case: DLC-treated solid titanium, three-part case Diameter 40.8 mm, Height 11.1 mm. Sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating Curved crystal case-back
- Dial: Solid 18-carat gold, hand-crafted fumé dial with sunburst pattern. Solid 18-carat gold appliqué indexes and hands. Month indicated with a small arrow-shaped centre hand. Sub-dial for seconds. Big date display at 3 o’clock with centred numerals
- Movement: Mechanical hand-wound in-house calibre HMC 341. Diameter 34.0 mm or 15 lignes, height 5.8 mm. Frequency 18’000 alternances per hour. 28 jewels and screwed gold mounts. Power reserve: minimum 7 days with double barrel. Solid 18-carat gold plate and bridges with matte finish, hand chamfering and hand-engraved hallmark. True bevel wheels and Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions. Interchangeable Moser escapement. Original Straumann Double Hairspring®. 2 genuine, functional diamond end-stones in the incabloc shock-absorber. Traditional screw balance wheel with white gold weight screws. Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold
- Functions: Perpetual Flash Calendar. Centre-hand month indicator, 12 hour indexes = 12 months. Hour and minute. Off-centre seconds dial with hacking seconds function at 6 o’clock. Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. Leap year indicator and adjustment pusher. Double Pull Crown System
- Strap: Hand-sewn carbon-coated matte black alligator leather strap. Solid 18-carat rose gold folding clasp with Moser logo.