Undoubtedly the most emblematic watch of the H. Moser & Cie collection, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is a piece that we covered (and praised, and reviewed) several times here, on Monochrome-Watches (here or here for instance). it has even been the play field for a concept, in what is to date the cleanest QP you can imagine (too clean? Maybe, but the point is not here). With their now usual “no logo” minimalistic dial approach and the new #MakeSwissMadeGreatAgain approach, H. Moser & Cie revamp their QP, with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity. New case, new dial, same super-clever movement… and 100% Swiss Made.
Technically, the new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity remains identical to the previous editions of the Schaffhausen-based Manufacture’s QP. And to be honest, no complaints, as there’s not much to improve on this movement. Indeed, it certainly one of the most ingenious perpetual calendars of the current production, especially because of its visual simplicity and user-friendly daily use. The display is somehow basic at first, as mainly the date is visible – large and well positioned, but yet rather alone. Still, there’s more, with a tiny hand on the central axis, which displays the months. The leap year, indispensable feature of a QP (but not a useful one on a daily basis) is positioned on the back. This entirely in-house manufactured movement has over 7 days of power reserve and the ‘Double Pull Crown’ feature, which allows a correction of the date by turning the crown (without disturbing the time setting) and set the time precisely (with a hack-second system), as well as an adjustment both forward and backward of the calendar, at any time of the day.
If the movement and the display remain identical, what is new with this H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity? Well, without breaking the codes and being disruptive towards the rest of the brand’s production, this Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity renews entirely its “habillage” (the external parts of a watch). First, the case has been redesigned and enlarged. While previously measuring 40.8mm, the new Moser QP now shows a 42mm diameter (and a reasonable 11.9mm thickness). This larger case is made out of 18k white gold. The shape has evolved too, in the details. Still, the curved caseback, which brings a superb comfort on the wrist, is still here, as well as the concave casebands with polished and vertically brushed surfaces. Good to know is that the case (and the dial too) is developed and manufactured in Switzerland, just to fit with the #MakeSwissMadeGreatAgain approach (meaning that most, if not all parts are manufactured in Switzerland, bringing back to former glory the idea of Swiss Made).
With this Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity, we also have a slight evolution of the dial. It uses the minimalistic concept of the brand (no logo, no useless indices, no “Swiss Made” mention), yet in a less nude design than the Perpetual Calendar Concept for instance (which really had nothing on the dial except hands… and even no small second sub-dial anymore) Here, the blue fumé dial (a smoky gradient dial, darker on the periphery) retains some indices at 12 and 6, with the new look adopted by the brand (double facetted batons). The date window has been re-shaped too, now being curved, and finally, the sub-counter for the second shows the same pure design. A minimalistic watch for sure, yet it remains rather legible in the end.
This new H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity is, for the moment, a limited edition of 50 pieces, only in white gold / blue fumé dial combination, with a black alligator strap. Price is CHF 54,000 Swiss Francs. www.h-moser.com.
Specifications of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity
- Case: 42mm diameter x 11.9mm height – 18k white gold, polished and brushed – sapphire crystal on both sides (curved on the back)
- Movement: HMC 800 Manufacture calibre – hand-wound – 2.5Hz frequency – 32 jewels – 7 days power reserve with double barrel – hours, minutes, small second, QP with date, month and leap year on the back, power reserve indicator – Interchangeable Moser escapement
- Strap: Hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, red leather lining – 18k white gold folding clasp