Moser & Cie. revisits its winning Perpetual Calendar complication in a Cosmic Green fumé dial. Like its 2017 predecessor, the new 42mm white gold Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity applies a radically minimalist approach to one of the most revered complications in watchmaking. A triumph of simplicity and elegance, Moser’s Perpetual Calendar Purity belies the machinations of its complex hand-wound movement. Belonging to H. Moser’s Purity line and released in a limited edition of just 50 pieces, this perpetual calendar pushes the envelope of minimalism one step further dispensing with any sign of branding on the dial, in the same spirit as Moser’s Concept watches.
“The definition of genius,” observed Albert Einstein, “is taking the complex and making it simple.” Moser’s design philosophy concurs with the genius’ proclamation and simplicity, purity and style dominate the dials of the greater part of the brand’s collections. The ingenious mechanical solutions below deck have allowed for the reductionist interpretation of the functions of a perpetual calendar on deck.
Set against the gorgeous Cosmic Green fumé dial, the watch indicates the hour, minutes and small seconds in standard positions along with a big date window at 3 o’clock and a power-reserve indicator at 9 o’clock. To consult the month, a small arrow placed between the hour and minute hands points to the corresponding month using the 12-hour track as a reference and the leap year cycle is indicated on the case back. Looking at the nudity and clarity of the dial, it is staggering to realise how much information is actually being offered.
First spotted on the Venturer Small Seconds XL Purity model of 2017, the cosmic green fumé colour has been chosen to embellish the new Endeavour Perpetual Calendar. If you liked the funky blue dial, the cosmic green is out-of-this-world beautiful. Like 90% of Moser’s dials, it features a sunburst pattern with a fumé effect, meaning a lighter tonality in the centre that intensifies on the borders. Only two indices appear on the dial, at 12 and 6 o’clock (barely) and the functions on the hypnotic pine-green dial are indicated by tapered, leaf-shaped hands.
Case and movement
Originally presented in 2015 in a 40.8mm Endeavour case, and completely overhauled in 2017, the Perpetual Calendar now enjoys a roomier 42mm home, with a height of 11.9mm. Like all the cases in the high-end Endeavour family, the case back and lugs are curved to improve ergonomics. The three-part white gold is beautifully finished with alternating polished and brushed surfaces and the sapphire crystal case back offers a view of the hand-wound HMC 800 manufacture calibre.
Equipped with exactly the same in-house movement as last year’s Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity model, the watch boasts a solid seven-day power reserve and features the intelligent interchangeable Moser escapement system.
Presented on a hallmark Moser kudu leather strap, the solid white gold folding clasp is engraved with the Moser logo – the only concession to branding visible on this watch. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch retails for CHF 54,000. More on www.h-moser.com.