Remember when during a test or an exam in school, you would attempt to rely on the most inconspicuous cheat sheet possible? Scribbling down notes as small as possible, on an easy-to-hide piece of paper, to help you achieve a decent grade? Well, H. Moser & Cie certainly does and has created what’s perhaps the ultimate cheater’s watch. Whilst updating the emblematic Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue, the brand also created the amusing Perpetual Calendar Tutorial. In typical Moser style, with a knack for minimalism but also a sense of humour, we present to you the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue & Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial.
The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, a much-loved model within H. Moser & Cie’s portfolio uses only the essentials to provide a full perpetual calendar display. The sensitivity in which the display is created is typical of the brand’s minimalistic approach. Both of these new models are a play on the philosophy portrayed by the Swiss independent watchmaker, but head into two opposite directions altogether.
The updated Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue follows the familiar path, while the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial adds in a good bit of fun. Either of the two uses the familiar fumé blue dial we’ve seen in the Endeavour before. Gradually darkening towards the edges, these dials effortlessly play with light due to the sunburst brushed finish.
Each dial displays the time through central, leaf-shaped hands and a small seconds subdial in the bottom half. On the right-hand side, there’s the faceted big date window. On the opposite end of the dial is a very subtle power reserve display, with a hand following a curved white arch. The final indication on this side of the watch is also the easiest to overlook: the month pointer mounted on a central axis. This follows the hour indices to indicate which month it is, so at 1 o’clock it’s January, at 2 o’clock it’s February and so on. The final detail is the newly adopted transparent logo, further emphasizing the minimalistic design of the dial.
Things take an interesting turn of events with the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, where H. Moser & Cie have incorporated subtle hints to what each indication implies, and more. Spread across the dial are notes that explain specific details about the watch, such as the length of the power reserve, or the fact the leap year indication is placed on the back of the movement. A small scale surrounding the month indication is combined with a bright yellow warning to watch out for the rare 29th number in the date window, which happens only once every four years of course. It’s all in good fun and showcases just how differently the people at H. Moser & Cie sometimes think.
The watches use the same HMC 800 Manufacture Calibre, which is hand-wound and can be admired through the caseback. This relatively large movement measures 34mm in diameter and 6.3mm in height and uses 32 jewels. It runs at a leisurely 18,000vph and thanks to its double barrel set-up provide a comforting 7-day autonomy when fully wound. It uses the Interchangeable Moser escapement with a Straumann hairspring, a gold pallet-fork and escapement wheel and is finished and decorated by hand.
Both watches are worn on a beige Kudu leather strap with an 18k gold pin buckle. The Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue is priced at CHF 54,000 and is part of the permanent collection until the moment H. Moser & Cie decides to stop its production. The brand likes to change colours or details from time to time, to refresh a certain model or collection, so don’t expect a production run into the thousands. The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial is limited to just 20 pieces and priced at CHF 59,000. For that kind of money, and you happen to know the brand’s take on watchmaking, I’d go for the Tutorial really. It’s just a very fun watch and executed in that typical Moser-way that makes the brand so endearing.
For more information, please visit H-Moser.com