Hands-on

H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

calendar | ic_dehaze_black_24px By Xavier Markl | ic_query_builder_black_24px 3 min read |

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue was a great unboxing experience… Some watches just make a strong first impression. Naturally, there is this deep, intriguing blue dial bereft of any markings, without logo or indices. But there is much more to this very conceptual watch than what you see initially. Let’s take a closer look.

Loud and proud logo-branding is not a necessity. A well-designed, well-executed product must consist of so much more than just a logo. Engineering, shapes, textures, colours… or even just a gradient dial is sometimes all it takes. This is what H. Moser and Cie. demonstrates with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept, a watch striking a seductive balance between stripped-back elegance and assertive style with the signature blue ‘fumé’ dial, which simply has no marking at all.

Fumé as a signature

Colourful ‘fumé’ dials have become a distinctive feature of H. Moser & Cie. watches. They stand out with lighter, often colourful tones in the centre, which gradually darken towards the periphery. This gradient, smoky effect gives a rich depth to the dials, creating beautiful reflections, which change depending on the ambient light.

The Fumé dials are so powerful that the logo doesn’t even need to be printed on the dial… And still, you’ll know it’s a Moser.

Gradient dials are quite common these days but H. Moser & Cie. was the brand to really instigate their comeback. The specific colour of the watch we are going hands-on with here was dubbed ‘Funky Blue’ and has become the most emblematic colour for the brand. This Concept version, with a nude dial, has an almost hypnotic effect enhanced by warm reflections and its sunray-brushed pattern. Of course, it only works if you want a stylish timepiece and are not obsessed by reading the time to the exact second.

The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept comes in a lovely 40mm round case. At 10.7mm, the watch is reasonably slim with a sloping bezel and distinctive lugs with their fluid concave profile. On the wrist, the curved lugs ensure a snug fit. Made from 18k white gold, it has significant heft. It is finely finished, alternating brushed and polished surfaces. The fluted crown is Moser-signed. It is water-resistant up to 30m.

In-house mechanics

Turning the watch over, the exhibition caseback reveals the automatic calibre HMC-200. This high-grade movement is entirely manufactured in-house. Moser prides itself for its high degree of vertical integration. It is one of the rare manufacturers to produce its hairsprings internally, with sister company Precision Engineering AG.

This large – 32mm diameter – movement operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour. Held by a full balance bridge, the oscillator features four regulation screws and is fitted with a Straumann® hairspring with flat overcoil. The automatic winding is bi-directional and the power reserve is given for 72 hours. It is beautifully finished with the brand’s distinctive double stripes and the gold skeletonized rotor is engraved with the H. Moser & Cie. hallmark.

The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue is worn on a supple hand-sewn alligator leather strap with calf leather lining. It is fitted with a white gold pin buckle. A limited-edition of 100 pieces, it retails for CHF 22,000 and can be ordered from H. Moser & Cie. newly opened online boutique here.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication

The H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Funky Blue is a handsome watch… but naturally, this is a matter of taste. In times when watches are often very similar, its great merit is to assert a singular yet stylish personality. The watch is Moser through and through and you don’t even need a logo to recognize it. The fumé dial and the minimalist design work perfectly on their own. All of this is backed up by a top-grade movement whose dimensions are perfectly adapted to the 40mm case. And as you have come to expect from H. Moser & Cie., the finishing is top-notch. Indie watchmaking just the way we like it!

For more information, visit www.h-moser.com.

6 responses

  1. Ah, dear. Was looking at fairly new pre-owned Moser Endeavour Perpetuals on Watchbox the other day. These sell for ~£45K new, and there’s a few of them on there for around £16K. So sad, such a technically impressive watch – but it does show that the brand hasn’t succeeded in planting a seed in collectors’ minds, despite all that refreshingly irreverent advertising and a reputation for high quality, all manufactured in-house.
    There’s too many different models now, and even the 1,500 units they make a year is too high. They should cut the ranges of different models in half and reduce to less than 300 units a year, retaining as much staff as possible making hairsprings and other parts for the industry through their Precision division.
    It just isn’t working, and when I see what prices their certified pre-owned selection command compared to the reality of the market, it really annoys me.

  2. Apart from cutting their range of models, Moser should reduce their retail-prices.
    CHF 22.000 for a time and seconds only watch is simply no longer feasible in today’s market.
    Patek, Lange and F.P. Journe may still get away with this (although I wonder for how long) but, with all respect, that’s a different league altogether.
    I appreciate Moser watches very much, and personally own an Endavour, but the world is changing and so should precious watch manufacturers.

  3. Pretty impressive 22,000 for a watch that you can only accurately read twice a day when all of the hands are at twelve (if it was there) and the only function of the second hand is just to give confidence that the watch is running.The Kings new clothes?

  4. @ Adriaan

    A very nice watch to own. I agree with your sentiment on price (although since Journe’s movements are made of gold there’s more excuse for their prices to some extent – which, compared to their competitors like Ferrier and Bethune, are still somehow not unreasonable), and I’d just like to see Moser succeed in a way that rewards their retail customers. I actually care about the company, see them as worthy.
    Ach, just frustrated.

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