Five Indie Watchmakers Making a Solid Impression with their Debut Watches

Not too long ago, just before summer, in fact, I lined up a series of new and rather impressive independent watchmakers for you to discover. A recurring topic, it remains at our very core, and because of this, we’re always on the lookout for new and exciting projects, people and brands. It’s a segment we know well and have a deeply rooted love for, simply because it’s where we feel some of the most exciting watchmaking happens. And although many command seriously high prices because of extensive manual labour, there are also more attainable discoveries to be made. So with that in mind, we have lined up five more independent watchmakers well worth your time and attention.

Marcu Initial

The time-only dress watch has been having a big moment in indie watchmaking for a couple of years, and the Initial by newly founded brand Marcu certainly fits the bill. Founded by veteran watchmaker Jérôme Marcu, the Initial shows careful attention to detail. It starts with the way the crystal meets the 40mm-wide titanium case, and continues with a three-dimensional chapter ring, a lovely decorated dial in deep blue, anthracite or yellow gold, and diamond-tipped central hands. Around the back, the strikingly symmetrical manually wound calibre JM01 is finished beautifully, with 75 inward hand-bevelled edges, for instance. Presented on an Alcantara strap, it’s limited to 33 pieces, spread across 11 pieces per colour. The price is set at CHF 59,000 before taxes.

For more information, please visit Marcu-Geneve.ch.

Quick Facts – 40mm x 13.10mm – grade 5 titanium case – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – pine-needle motif dial in blue, anthracite or gold – steel hands with triangular diamond tips – calibre JM01, manually wound – 18,000vph – 50h power reserve – German Silver plates & bridges – steel balance bridge – hand-finished – Alcantara strap with pin buckle – limited to 33 pieces (11 per colour) – CHF 59,000 excl. VAT

Neode N01 first Edition

Next up is Neode and its debut N01 First Edition, which takes the concept of a time-only watch in a slightly sportier, more contemporary direction. Working out of London and developed by architect and founder of Neode, Marius-Daniel Dumitrascu, the N01 is the result of close collaboration with the suppliers involved. It’s powered by an extensively reworked manually wound movement by Chronode, uses a dial made by Journe’s Les Cadraniers de Genève, which is set into a titanium case by Voutilainen. The sector dial, crafted from 925 silver, shines in restraint and hides a very subtle power reserve indication. Limited to 25 pieces and fitted to a cut-to-size deep blue rubber strap with a titanium folding buckle, the N01 First Edition is priced at CHF 26,400 (excl. VAT).

For more information, please visit NeodeWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 39.5mm x 7.9mm (9.9mm incl. crystals) – grade 5 titanium, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – 925 silver dial with grenage finish – sector-style layout – slate grey ceramic markers & hand inserts – ‘hidden’ power reserve indicator – calibre Neode N01 (derived from Chronode C101) – manually wound – 21,600vph – 192h power reserve – integrated blue rubber strap with titanium folding buckle – limited to 25 pieces – CHF 26,400 (excl. VAT)

Atelier Pieters

Founded by husband and wife Maarten and Jessica Pieters, the Atelier Pieters Atelier 1 Founders’ Series is a perfect marriage (pun intended) of style and substance. At 43.5mm in width and 13mm in height, it has a commanding presence, yet backs it all up with a stunning in-house-made and finished movement. One of the most unique features is the double power reserve indicator, with one intricately constructed on the back and one subtly integrated into the anthracite or rose gold dial (the dot at 3′). The movement construction and finishing are of an incredible level, showing German Silver bridges with a frosted texture, hand-bevelled edges and a large tourbillon escapement suspended under a black-polished bridge. Limited to 8 pieces per colour, it costs CHF 148,500 before VAT.

For more information, please visit AtelierPieters.ch.

Quick Facts – 43.5mm x 13mm – three-piece platinum case, polished – sapphire crystal front & back – 30m water-resistant – multi-level anthracite or gold dial – milled & diamond-faceted hands – calibre T2-03RM, in-house – manually wound – 21,600vph – 50h power reserve – tourbillon escapement – hand-finished – dual power reserve indications – ostrich foot leather strap with platinum pin buckle – limited to 8 pieces per colourway & a capacity of 4 pieces per year – CHF 148,500 excl. VAT

Voxel Meridion

On a completely different yet no less original level, we find the Voxel Meridion VX01-E, the debut watch by entrepreneur Thibault Lux and technical director Bruno Herbet. Capable of jumping from an AM to PM scale for the dial thanks to a clever self-developed 12:24 time indication module atop a Soprod Newton P092 automatic, the Meridion certainly stands out. The octagonal shape of the 904L steel case is original and can be worn on either a suede leather strap or an integrated 904L steel bracelet. The grained or sunburst dials come in three colours and reveal its clever party trick through 12 cutouts. Limited to 300 pieces spread across 120 in charcoal, 120 in blue and 60 in silver, the Meridion VX01-E retails for EUR 2,500 on the strap or EUR 2,850 on the bracelet.

For more information, please visit VoxelWatches.com.

Quick Facts – 41.4mm diameter – octagonal 904L stainless steel case, brushed & polished – sapphire crystal front  & back – 120m water-resistance – grained and sunburst dial in charcoal, silver or blue – switching 12/24 disc with day/night indicator – hands & markers with SLN – Soprod Newton P092 automatic with in-house module – 28,800vph – 44h power reserve – limited to 300 pieces in total – suede leather strap or 904L steel bracelet – EUR 2,500 (strap) or EUR 2,850 (bracelet) excl. VAT

Alexandre Martin 1965

Named after his father’s birth year, the 1965 is the breakout watch by Alexandre Martin, a 28-year-old Belgian watchmaker. Working out of Morges, Switzerland, Martin has created an almost perfectly proportioned time-only watch. The stainless steel is just 38mm wide and 9.8mm thick, hitting the proverbial sweet spot for many people. The three-part gold dial revels in simplicity, yet is beautifully detailed with uniquely shaped steel hands. Add to that an extensively reworked and hand-finished vintage CYMA 586 movement, and we’re dealing with a real winner. Only 12 will be made in steel, all fitted with a calf leather strap and pin buckle, and retailing for CHF 65,000.

For more information, please visit Instagram.com/Alexandre.Martin.Watches.

Quick Facts – 38mm x 9.35mm – stainless steel case – polished concave bezel – sapphire crystal front & back – 50m water-resistant – 3-part dial with gold base & markers – hand-polished steel hands – enamel small seconds subdial – reworked CYMA 586 movement, manually wound – 18,000vph – German Silver bridges – power reserve to be confirmed – calf leather strap with pin buckle – limited edition of 12 pieces in steel – CHF 65,000