Bracelets Were Probably the Stars of the Show during the Geneva Watch Week

With the massive return in popularity of integrated bracelet watches in the past few years, metal bracelets have made a sensational comeback, to the point where these are no longer exclusive to sports watches. But how annoying is it to see a brilliantly designed watch, on which the brand has taken great attention to detail and spent much time refining the case, attached to an average metal bracelet? Believe me, it happens more often than not. The reason is simple: crafting a bracelet is complex (many small parts, all articulated, and even a fine clasp isn’t easy to produce). Often, these are outsourced and the result is, at best, standard… But this year at Watches and Wonders and during the Geneva Watch Week, we have seen a formidable return of fine bracelets. Elegant, punchy or simply greatly engineered, here’s what we found out. 

The Rolex SetTimo bracelet on the Perpetual 1908

Oyster, Jubilee, President, Pearlmaster or even Oysterflex (indeed, Rolex considers its rubber option a bracelet and not a strap…) The Crown is known for mastering both the design and engineering sides of bracelet making. But this year, Rolex launched a brand new metal bracelet design named Settimo. A fancy name for a fancy bracelet. Rolex being Rolex, everything novel from the brand is big news… Not a Jubilee, not a President, not a beads-of-rice, this new Settimo bracelet is made of 7 contoured links, a dressy option now offered in yellow gold (for now) on the Perpetual 1908. Greatly crafted (no surprises here), it’s an absolute joy to wear thanks to its suppleness and flexibility, and the way it flows on the wrist. The hidden, fully integrated Crownclasp looks fantastic, even though it cancels the possibility of a micro-adjustment system. What’s really surprising is that the king of overengineering presents it on curved, semi-open end-links. But even that part is has been patented… And the looks? Pure class.

Rolex Goes integrated bracelet with the Land-Dweller

We will come back very soon to the Land-Dweller and its incredible escapement, but now we’ll focus on the bracelet. There are things to say here. First, it marks the comeback of the Crown to the integrated style of the Oysterquartz and other 1970s models. Then, next to the Settimo, it is the second new type of bracelet that Rolex is introducing this year, the so-called Flat Jubilee bracelet. A reinterpretation of a classic design launched on the Datejust in 1945 (80 years ago), it retains the same 5-link structure with three narrower links in the centre flanked by two broader ones at the edges, but with flat surfaces. The execution is superb. The finishing, with the new technical satin finish (a linear matte surface with longer lines) and polished chamfers everywhere, is impressive. Considering its narrow 9mm lug width, the connection of the bracelet to the case is again a patented process that includes ceramic inserts and tubes to protect the spring bar and help prevent premature wear. It is once again closed by a concealed folding Crownclasp, visually harmonious but without micro-adjustment.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monoface on gold Milanese bracelet

Undoubtedly one of the most discussed and praised watches of the entire fair… This new Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in Pink gold with a tone-on-tone dial and a Milanese gold bracelet truly caught everybody’s attention. And for obvious reasons, as it does look spectacular. This watch is the perfect example of how a well-designed, well-thought-out metal bracelet can transform one of the most classic and elegant watches into a whole new object… without losing an ounce of its refinement. The consistency of the design and colour scheme, this full gold attire, could have resulted in a flashy, ostentatious watch, and surprisingly, it doesn’t. And while the watch itself is nothing revolutionary, this new attire elevates it to a whole new level (ps. that grained dial might have something to do with it too…)

Furlan Marri’s Disco Volante on a “herringbone” mesh bracelet

A watch that caught my attention for many reasons… The Furlan Marri Disco Volante isn’t new, however, the so-called herringbone-style steel mesh bracelet is a recent addition to the brand’s collection, and is now included in all future and past Disco Volante orders (good to know if you already have one). Besides this, the brand will also soon launch the version you see here with a black onyx dial and applied baguette lab-grown diamonds. And it looks fantastic. But since we’re here to talk about bracelets, let me just tell you that this addition to the watch is absolutely superb and complements its funky, dressy, vintage look perfectly. It almost feels like a piece of woven fabric, with its geometric links. Once again, this proves that micro-brands can go beyond just traditional, outsourced bracelets, and Furlan Marri pushed the idea of the mesh bracelet further with a design that’s refined, elegant and distinctive.

The Lange Odysseus on full Honeygold bracelet

Once again, no revolution here, as we have seen A. Lange & Söhne’s sports watch, the Odysseus, already on a metal bracelet – either in steel or in titanium. Up until now, the gold version of this watch – in white gold, should I add – was exclusively worn on a leather or rubber strap. This year, the German brand brings its proprietary Honeygold alloy to the collection, and adds a matching bracelet to the lot. And while it could have been over the top, the result is rather discreet (relatively speaking) and very consistent. Yes, it has character and also weighs close to 300 grams, but the very conception of the bracelet makes it much easier to wear than one would expect. And it retains the clever folding clasp of the steel model. Again, this shows how a well-designed bracelet can transform a watch.

Grand Seiko finally goes micro-adjustment with the UFA Ice Forest SLGB003

As of now, we’re going to move from design-only to pure engineering. And we have to start with the bracelet of the Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB003. While there’s a lot to be said about this watch – as reported here – what matters today is the fact that GS finally cancels one of the main complaints about its watches, the lack of fine adjustment on the clasp. First seen on the Ultra Fine Accuracy, the brand has developed a simple, easy-to-use, practical and ultimately straightforward system that allows for expanding the length of the bracelet by 6mm in three 2mm steps. No tool, no fuss, just a good, not-too-big clasp in titanium that will make your life easier during hot summer days. Now we just have to wait for this clasp to be deployed on more watches.

The clasp of the Tudor Pelagos Ultra

If you want the best-in-class folding clasp for a dive watch, look no further. The one attached to the new Tudor Pelagos Ultra is as overengineered as a 1990s Mercedes S-class, and equally built to last. Let’s break it down… First, it features a rack extension system to quickly adjust the length of the bracelet, and the external side of the clasp has a cut-out with a visual indicator that includes a luminous marker to easily discern what setting the bracelet is at (I mean… someone might have hurt Tudor’s feelings…) Then, look inside and you’ll see a pair of springs that allow the bracelet to expand or retract depending on the size of the wetsuit as you ascend or descend. Finally, there’s a flipping element that acts as a long wetsuit extension – classic, but then again, practical. We have included the official video of the brand below as this is the best way to show what’s going on. This could well be the new benchmark for a dive watch clasp. And the Pelagos Ultra also comes with a black rubber strap, with its own rubber extension piece.

TAG Heuer’s clever length adjustment on the new Carrera Day-Date

Here again, we’re not talking about design – this is nothing more than just a classic 3-link steel bracelet – but the bracelets of the revamped TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date hide something very clever and highly practical. Most watch enthusiasts know how difficult it is to adjust the length of a metal bracelet, specifically those with pins. Even when these are equipped with screws, there’s always the fear of scratching the nicely polished sides of the links. With its new Carrera Day-Date, TAG brings a simple, user-friendly, tool-free solution, which makes full sense in a world where more and more sales are done digitally.  Flip the external links 90 degrees and then simply pull them out, and you can then remove one link entirely, effortlessly. Put that back and place, rotate 90 degrees again and voila. All done. It’s just too bad that TAG Heuer doesn’t include a quick-change system and a micro-adjust clasp. That would have made this one of the most user-friendly bracelets on the market.