Monochrome Watches
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Ineichen Upcoming Auction Is Packed With Modern Complications

Zurich-based auction house Ineichen Auctioneers will host sales of complicated watches.

| By Brice Goulard | 5 min read |

Zurich-based auction house Ineichen Auctioneers has been on the rise recently, with sales that went beyond the classic portfolio of vintage Rolex sports watches and modern steel Pateks and APs. There’s something truly attractive in seeing selections based on independent watchmakers or thematic sales turning around a specific colour or complications. Ineichen Auctioneers’ upcoming late 2022 sale will be hosted at two different moments. And we start first with part 1, scheduled on 29 October 2022, which will feature more than 30 watches showcasing tourbillons and skeletonization. Here are the watches we think deserve your attention.

MB&F Legacy Machine Perpetual

A watch that needs little presentation… Not only one of the most visually appealing designs in the MB&F collection but also one of its most complicated models ever. The Legacy Machine Perpetual mostly stand out thanks to its architecture and the rather uncompromising perpetual calendar that was developed by indie watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, with a truly innovative construction, guided by the need to have the balance centrally positioned on top of the watch. The result is a new type of calendar, fully secured and installed on the dial side of the calibre, with an openworked display.

Initially launched in 2015, Ineichen here offers a yellow gold and blue dial edition that was produced in a limited run of 25 pieces only, which is of course sold out since its introduction in 2020. It is offered in mint condition, with an estimate of CHF 80,000 – CHF 100,000, with more details here.

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De Bethune Dream Watch Three Tourbillon

If you think the classic DB collection of De Bethune (understand by that the DB25 and DB28) are already rather extravagant, you have to see the so-called Dream Watch collection, which was conceived to implement the most daring ideas, both design and technical. Presented in 2009, the De Bethune Dream Watch Three is an evolution of the Dream Watch One design, with several technical evolutions such as an ultra-light tourbillon made of titanium and silicon, and running at a high frequency of 5Hz. The spectacular design of the case with the pair of floating lugs on the lower side is here made of platinum is paired with a dark blue dial, which is made of blued titanium.

This fascinating, daring watch is surely highly collectable, with De Bethune reporting only 19 pieces made since 2009. The present watch is especially attractive as one of the earliest examples of the Dream Watch Three series, and is presented in lightly worn condition. Estimate CHF 60,000 – CHF 80,000, with more details to be read here.

Daniel Roth Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde

As one of the most important independent watchmakers of the modern days of horology, Daniel Roth is often present in our selections, for obvious reasons. Not only his watches have gained in popularity recently, but some are true hidden gems, such as the present Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date “XV years” Limited Edition. We’re talking here about a rare combination of a perpetual calendar with two retrograde indicators, a tourbillon regulator and an automatic base movement. Launched in 2004 as a jubilee limited edition to commemorate the brand’s 15th anniversary, and features the brand’s traditional case with a distinctive shape.

The beauty of this watch lies in its discretion, with the dial being fairly simple at first sight, but the back revealing all the complexity of the timepiece. Made of platinum, this example is 12/15 and presented in great condition, with an estimate of CHF 30,000 – CHF 40,000. More details can be read here.

Breguet Classique Grande Complication Tourbillon

In direct connection with the previous watch, Ineichen is also offering a rather impressive collection of early Breguet tourbillon watches, a series that was started by watchmaker Daniel Roth, who worked for the brand in the 1970s and 1980s. During that time, Roth helped define a new aesthetic for their wristwatches and introduced a variety of complications invented and mastered by Abraham-Louis Breguet during his lifetime, which of course includes the tourbillon regulator. The present watch is based on the calibre 558 (Nouvelle Lémania 397), a traditional hand-wound one-minute tourbillon that has been fully engraved by hand on the back.

Launched in 2002 as a larger 39mm alternative to the original 35mm Tourbillon 33xx series, the present example is made of platinum with a new single-layer solid-gold and silvered dial, resulting in a sleeker watch. It features calibre 558 Mk4 with the backplate 4th generation engraving style. It is presented in a lightly worn condition with an estimate of CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000. More details here.

IWC Schaffhausen Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette

Mostly known for its rugged pilot’s chronographs and nautical-inspired oversized watches, IWC has had its share of complications during the 1990s and 2000s, with some pretty interesting models. Following the development of the Il Destriero Scafusia wristwatch, with a minute repeater module developed by Robert Greubel for this project. Soon after, IWC decided to release a minute repeater wristwatch based on it, made in the style of classic repeating pocket watches. The module was adapted to the IWC Lépine, openworked for the occasion, resulting in this appealing, visually and mechanically complex Portuguese Minute Repeater Squelette in 3 limited editions, including the present example in rose gold (one of 50 pieces reference IW524102).

The only skeleton minute repeater ever manufactured by IWC, this watch made in 2005 is in lightly worn condition and presents a complex, intricate design that stands out from the rest of the collection. Estimate is CHF 20,000 – CHF 30,000. More details here.

You can consult the full catalogue of the upcoming “Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons” auction by Ineichen (29 October 2022, 14:00 Zurich time) from the link here.

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