Even though the flow of new models launched on the market is certainly less intense this year than in the past, some important watches have made their debut. And among these releases, we’ve seen numerous dive watches – a perennial of the industry that never loses its appeal. We’ve decided to list some of the new diver’s watches that made an impression on us… five serious models from five serious brands. Conservative choices? Maybe, but these are, without a doubt, some of the coolest too.
Doxa SUB 300 Collection
Despite having created some controversy in the collecting community (mainly due to the resemblance with past limited editions), we can’t hide the cool factor of a vintage-inspired, historically relevant Dox’. The new SUB 300 is simply the piece to get if you want to wear a Doxa dive watch. This new model, inspired by the original 1967 SUB 300, features the brand’s slim case, a domed sapphire crystal, original dial layout and hands, the no-decompression dive table on its bezel, a bead-of-rice bracelet, a COSC movement… So yes, it looks almost identical to the LE models, but this is the reason why it deserves some love. And it also allows those who missed the 50th-anniversary editions to finally enjoy a good-old Doxa. The SUB 300 is now available as a permanent collection, with six dial colours (black, navy, orange, yellow, silver and turquoise) with rubber straps also offered.
Quick facts: 42.50mm stainless steel case – no-deco metres unidirectional steel bezel – sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 300m WR – automatic ETA 2824-2 – chronometer-certified by COSC – bead-of-rice bracelet or rubber strap – 6 dials available – CHF 2,490
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m America’s Cup
This model doesn’t make it to our selection because it is unprecedented – the PO 600m has been around for many years now and has a proven track record as one of the best luxury dive watches – but because the white, red and blue colour scheme on this limited edition evokes nautical sporting events to a T. Designed to celebrate the renewal of Omega’s role as the official timekeeper of the America’s Cup, this new edition brings a fresher note to a model usually seen in darker tones. The combination of a white dial with blue and red elements definitely works. For the rest, we find the uncompromised quality of the PO 600m, with ceramic bezel and dial, a well-finished case and its ultra-innovative automatic Master-Chronometer movement. Not the cheapest of this selection, but one with great character.
Quick facts: 43.50mm stainless steel case – blue and red ceramic unidirectional bezel with regatta countdown – sapphire crystal – screw-down crown and HEV – 600m WR – automatic calibre 8900 – Master-Chronometer – blue and red rubber strap – limited to 2,021 pieces – EUR 6,600
Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition Steel
When it comes to relatively accessible yet high-performance dive watches, Oris is one of the definitive options to consider. The brand has made a name in this field over the past decade, specifically with its Aquis collection – available in dozens of style and with multiple complications. One of the latest models is named the “Carysfort Reef Limited Edition” and shows the brand’s commitment to protecting the oceans (more on that here). It also adds some daily practicality to the diver’s package with a GMT function and a 24-hour bezel. Still, we’re talking about a robust dive watch with 300m water-resistance and all the necessary equipment. Unique to this edition, the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition features a gradient blue dial and two-tone ceramic bezel.
Quick facts: 43.50mm stainless steel case – black and blue ceramic bezel, bidirectional with 24h scale – sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 300m WR – automatic calibre Oris 798 (base Sellita) – stainless steel bracelet – limited to 1,000 pieces – EUR 2,700
Seiko Prospex Captain Willard SPB153
It is hard not to include Seiko in a selection of dive watches, especially since the brand has been on fire during the past couple of years. Among the countless new models introduced in 2020 is this one, one of the coolest models you’ll find in stores now. Not only does it look great, but there’s a story behind this model: the SPB153 (and the black SPB151) is a modern re-edition of the watch worn by Martin Sheen in Apocalypse Now, the Seiko 6105-8110 “Turtle”. Well-proportioned, packed with historical elements, crafted with the brand’s usual high quality, it also adds some originality with an olive green dial/bezel combination that refers to the military past of this model. And it isn’t limited in production.
Quick facts: 42.80mm stainless steel case – green aluminium unidirectional bezel – sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 200m WR – automatic calibre 6R35 – black rubber strap – EUR 1,150
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue
Last but not least, one of the most discussed models of 2020 (so far…), the new “Navy Blue” edition of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Based on the smaller/slimmer version of the brand’s ultra-successful diver’s collection, Tudor adds a colder, more modern and fresher take on its BB 58 – in fact, it feels quite different from the black “gilt” model, which plays on vintage and warm tones. Both the bezel and the dial are treated in blue, with silver-coloured markers and inscriptions. The rest is familiar, keeping all the greatness of the ’58; 39mm case, snowflake hands, COSC in-house movement, superb quality and great price.
Quick facts: 39mm stainless steel case – blue aluminium unidirectional bezel – sapphire crystal – screw-down crown – 200m WR – automatic calibre MT5402 – chronometer-certified by COSC – stainless steel bracelet or textile strap or soft-touch strap – from EUR 3,160