There is something special about a refined perpetual calendar and chronograph watch. It is a category that houses many timepieces that we dream of owning one of these days. Among these, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a supremely elegant model powered by one of the best-in-class movements. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders, the brand unveils a platinum version fitted with a beautiful salmon dial that, as often with this colour, is elegant, unostentatious but with that very special twist. And that makes it a perfect competitor to the Patek 5270 Salmon.
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a refined, restrained and practical watch with a venerable lineage. The reference 5000T was introduced in 2016 with a few design updates, in particular, a revamped dial and a new movement. Back then, the calibre 1142 QP replaced the 1141 QP. While the 1141 QP relied on a Lemania 2310 ébauche, the 1142 QP is produced in-house. It uses the same architecture but with some notable updates to meet Hallmark of Geneva criteria, with a 3Hz frequency (vs 2.5Hz) and a free-sprung, screwed balance wheel.
This beautiful movement is housed in a 43mm case with straight lugs and rectangular chronograph pushers. It can be admired via the exhibition caseback with the chronograph mechanism on full display with its column-wheel and horizontal clutch. Its finishing is top-notch with a circular-grained mainplate, Côtes de Genève motifs on the bridges, hand-bevelled components and straight-grained flanks.
The brand’s latest iteration of the model is an elegant, nuanced combination of a platinum case with a salmon dial. The dial features classic watchmaking codes. The focus on legibility is evident. The baton-style hour markers are paired with dauphine-style hands. The snailed, slightly recessed 30-minute chronograph counter and small seconds counter appear in a perfectly balanced and symmetrical arrangement. The day, month and leap-year cycle are read off through apertures in the upper part of the dial. Integrated into a pointer-date display at 6 o’clock, the platinum moon disc is engraved with a moon that is alternately smiling and melancholy, depending on the phase. The tachymeter scale at the periphery of the dial brings a technical touch.
The Salmon Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Platinum is worn on a blue hand-stitched alligator leather strap with a platinum folding buckle. Price is set at EUR 121,250 (excl. taxes). It will be only available through Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. For more information, please visit www.vacheron-constantin.com.