The Pasha de Cartier collection was launched in 1985 following a design by Gerald Genta that captured the hedonistic rush of the 1980s. The exotic name of the collection was taken from the equally extravagant Pasha Thami El Glaoui of Marrakesh, a loyal customer of the brand and keen collector between 1920-1950. Responding to Cartier’s penchant for unusual shapes, the Pasha was conceived around the concept of a “square inside a circle” and featured a distinctive cabochon-capped protector over the crown attached to a small chain. The Pasha collection prospered until around 2011, when it was discontinued. Two years ago, during the digital edition of Watches & Wonders, the Pasha was reintroduced in 41 and 35mm cases with Valfleurier automatic movements. This year, the Pasha de Cartier Grille stages a second comeback (it made an appearance in the 1990s under ref. 1021 with a rotating diver’s bezel) inspired by a watertight watch with a protective metallic grid over its dial from 1943. Versatility is the name of the game, and in addition to the interchangeable strap system, the gold grill protecting the dial can also be removed.
The latest 41mm Pasha de Cartier Grille is presented in a yellow gold case with a thickness of 9.5mm and water-resistance of 100 metres. The incorporation of the grid accentuates the dynamic design of the Pasha with its thick, mirror-polished bezel and square railway track in the centre of the dial. Crafted in hand-polished yellow gold, the removable grid over the dial adds even more personality to a watch that is per se on the exuberant side of things. Four small clasps with a tiny spring allow the grid to be easily attached and detached. With its protruding sapphire cabochon-tipped crown and chain, and the classic Vendome-style bars with rounded Clous de Paris tips designed and patented by Louis Cartier in 1934, the Pasha has a lively, extroverted personality.
Like Gerald Genta’s original design for the Pasha de Cartier in 1985, the four large numerals go against Cartier’s longstanding tradition of Roman numerals and are Arabic. Picked out in an Art Deco font, the large black Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock are printed on a silvered dial with a scallop-shaped decoration and a date window perched at an angle between 4 and 5 o’clock. Highlighting the numerals are three gold rectangular markers at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock filled with black and an inverted pyramid at noon. Cartier’s signature sword-shaped and blued hour and minute hands are accompanied by a central seconds hand.
A practically invisible mechanism, known as Cartier’s QuickSwitch system, lets you change the strap in an instant. The small button on the reverse side of the bar lugs releases and attaches the bracelet or strap. In this case, the model is offered with blue or dark grey alligator leather straps.
Calibre 1847 MC
The Pasha de Cartier Grille is powered by an automatic movement produced by Richemont’s Valfleurier manufacture. The calibre 1847 MC represents the entry-level automatic engine of the brand replacing former ETA calibres and clones. Cartier has beefed up the anti-magnetic properties of the movement using non-magnetic nickel phosphorous components for the escapement mechanism as well as a shield made of a paramagnetic alloy. The movement beats at 4Hz, offers 42 hours of power reserve, and is pleasantly decorated with Côtes de Genève on the rotor and bridges.
Availability and Price
The Pasha de Cartier Grille forms part of the regular collection. The price is EUR 16,600 before taxes. For more information, please consult Cartier.com.