Cartier, the renowned Parisian jeweller and watchmaker, is mostly known for its “montres de formes” and has consolidated an unrivalled legacy in the creation of fascinating shaped watches. With its elegant shapes and eccentric cases, Cartier rarely approaches watch design like the rest of the industry and even a simple round watch is never ‘simple’ in terms of design. For 2020, the brand demonstrates this once again, by revamping one of its icons, the watch with the chained crown. Here’s the new Pasha de Cartier Collection.
a 1980s cult watch
The story of the Pasha de Cartier goes as far back as 1932 when Louis Cartier created one of the first waterproof watches – thanks to a very unusual crown protection device. It is said that the watch was commissioned by the Pasha of Marrakesh, hence the name of the collection. He requested a watch that would be elegant but capable of accompanying him on his regular swims and daily bathing. The iconic features of this watch were a chain-secured cap protecting the winding crown and a protective grid over the crystal. In 1943, the timepiece was introduced into the official Cartier collection.
Fast forward to the 1980s and the name Pasha would come to evoke a collection designed by none other than Gerald Genta. His proposal was a sportier watch that would maintain its innate Cartier elegance but would also answer the need for more flamboyant designs of the era. And the old Pasha watch was his source of inspiration. The signature elements were the “square inside a circle”, the protective chained-crown and the unique lugs, topped by oversized “Clou de Paris”. It even featured a diving bezel, making it the brand’s sports watch of that time.
The 2020 Pasha de Cartier
2020 is here and Cartier introduces a revamped Pasha watch… Sleeker, more streamlined, with no markings on the bezel but still entirely recognisable as a Pasha watch.
The fundamentals of the Pasha de Cartier are still present here, with the round case, now with a sleek polished bezel and more angular shapes, attached to lug modules with still two “Clou de Paris” at their extremities. In the same vein, the crown is still protected by a chained-cap that unscrews and reveals the winding crown – both elements being topped by a sapphire cabochon. However, as you can see, all the elements have been modernized and are now sharper, better defined and less flamboyant, thanks to brushed surfaces. Also, the case is 100m water-resistant, giving this watch a slightly sportier vocation than a Tank or a Santos.
The 2020 Pasha de Cartier is available in several materials and two sizes. The large model (see below) measures 41mm in diameter with a slender 9.55mm height. It is available either in stainless steel or in 18k yellow gold.
The mid-size version (see below), something usual for Cartier, is 35mm in diameter and 9.37mm in height. This mid-size model is available in stainless steel, in 18k pink gold with or without diamonds on the bezel.
As for the dial, the new Pasha de Cartier retains the classic “square inside a circle” design. The dial is pure Cartier, with a stamped guilloché pattern in a silvery-white dial, with signature Pasha Arabic numerals and blued hands. The square filigree rail-track gives a dynamic look to this classic dial. Note that the 41mm features a date while the mid-size model has a no-date display.
Powering this new collection, and used in both 41mm and 35mm models is a manufacture movement Calibre 1847 MC, produced in Valfleurier as the entry-level automatic engine of the brand. Visible through a sapphire caseback, this movement is meant to be a replacement for ETA and clones, as it shares the same dimensions. It beats at 4Hz and boasts 40 hours of power reserve. New on this movement are some non-magnetic nickel-phosphorus components.
Just like the revamped Santos de Cartier unveiled in 2018, the brand adds multiple options and clever systems for the straps and bracelets. The Pasha de Cartier large model in stainless steel can, for instance, be ordered with an alligator strap or with a combination of leather straps and stainless steel bracelets. The latter is equipped with a “QuickSwitch” system to easily remove it, as well as the “SmartLink” size adjustment system to adjust the size of the bracelet without tools.
Availability has not yet been announced. Prices start at EUR 6,250 for the 35mm and EUR 6,800 for the 41mm.
High-horology and jewellery pieces
The 2020 Pasha de Cartier collection, in addition to the classic automatic large and mid-size models, also comprises high-horology models, such as the skeleton version, with the mainplate integrating the Arabic numerals. This version comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with bracelet and alligator strap.
The collection also integrates 41mm skeleton tourbillon versions, which are available either in non-paved 18k rose gold or in fully diamond-paved 18k white gold, all worn on alligator straps.
Finally, some 35mm jewellery editions are also presented, with or without diamonds on the dial. These versions are all made of 18k white gold.
More details at cartier.com.