Monochrome Watches
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The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 (Live Pics & Price)

Still an Aquaracer, still Professional, but in a smaller, more refined size.

| By Robin Nooy | 2 min read |
2022 TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Smokey Black & Blue

Last year TAG Heuer revamped the well-known Aquaracer Professional range, the brand’s long-standing dive watch collection. It featured an updated, more refined look that was in line with the collection’s lineage that started with the 2000-series in the early 1980s. The DNA is especially apparent in the overall shape of the case, which is retained albeit updated in the latest collection. New for 2022 is the addition of a slightly less beefy and bulky diver, and we’ve already gotten our hands on it prior to the LVMH Watch Week. Here’s the new 40mm TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200.

The origins of the Aquaracer collection can be traced back to the early 1980s when TAG Heuer presented the 2000-series of watches. This series of dive and chronograph watches lasted until 2005, a year after TAG Heuer used the Aquaracer moniker for the first time. Since then, it has been a stable part of the brand’s portfolio.

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The Heuer 2000 series of watches (image from Calibre 11)

Expanding the collection with these new Aquaracer Professional 200 series, TAG Heuer has toned down the utilitarian look and feel a bit. When looking at two of the new models, we see a more refined, classical style, executed in stainless steel only. However, it does still fall in line with TAG Heuer’s “Six Features” philosophy we explained last year.

Its case measures 40mm across and is fully brushed, with polished edges. The unidirectional rotating bezel is made of radial-brushed steel, with a black 60-minute timing scale. A solid steel caseback, sapphire crystal on top and screw-down crown ensure a 200m water-resistance, which makes it a more than capable dive watch. The dials you see here are down in smokey black or blue, with a sunray-brushed finish.

What remains are the horizontal grooves across the dial, now paired with more classical applied hour indices. Gone are the hexagonal ones, and instead we have trapezoidal-shaped markers. The hour hand has been reshaped and now has a straight, sword-shaped profile. To aid with legibility under diminishing light, all hands and markers have a Super-LumiNova insert. A date window at 6 o’clock finishes the indications.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Processional 200 uses the Calibre 5 automatic movement, which is a Sellita SW 200-1 at heart and used in the Aquaracer series before. Hidden from view under the closed caseback, it’s decorated with a compass emblem. It has 26 jewels, runs at a frequency of 28,800vph and provides 38 hours of autonomy when fully wound.

Both these references of the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 come on a three-link stainless steel bracelet. The outer links are brushed, with a polished centre link for a touch of contrast. It also features a folding clasp with adjustable extension. The new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200, in its 40mm size and with smokey black or blue dial, retails for EUR 2,500.

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2 responses

  1. Seems like a reasonable alternative to the Oris Aquis 41.5 mm divers (not the new Calibre 400 refs though). I actually quite like these 🙂

  2. Great watch. However, I am having a hard time pulling the trigger, when a Christoper Ward Trident is more than half the price.

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