When talking about Hermès watches, the image of luxurious, nicely executed models with an original, deceptively simple design and a unique flair comes to mind. And, for most models, this is true – think about the recent H08 collection or the Carré H watch. But since the French brand also owns a share of Vaucher Manufacture, Hermès can also present watches with more horological content, watches with complications or with original displays. The brand’s latest novelty is all about this, mixing a relaxed elegance with a pretty interesting movement. Meet the new Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune.
Contrary to many other luxury powerhouses, the watch division of Hermès is not a fashion statement. It enjoys a level of independence from the rest of the brand’s collections and can be considered a proper watchmaker. Certainly, as part of a mainstream luxury brand, it has to respect design codes and the discreet elegance Hermès is known for. But these watches are not handbag-related accessories. They are mechanical watches all around.
The Slim is a rather traditional collection for Hermès, given its predilection for unusual shapes. This collection is the classic round model of the brand, yet it isn’t just another round watch. For the latest edition of the Slim d’Hermès, we see the return of the nicely designed case with a minimalist centre case and its original attached, angular lugs. The most noticeable element of this model is, without doubt, its play on textures and colours. The 39.50mm ultra-thin case combines a bead-blasted dark grey grade 5 titanium matte caseband and caseback with a bright and polished 950 platinum bezel and 18k white gold crown. This contrast between rough, almost industrial textures and the luxurious appeal of platinum is rather attractive.
The other important thing to note in the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune is that we’re talking about an openworked watch, treated in the same vein as the case, that plays on light and shadows and matte and bright textures. The bridges of the automatic calibre H1953 feature graphic, modern skeletonisation. The top surfaces are matte, contrasting with the polished bevels and sinks. In the same vein, the bridges have a dark grey coat, while most technical elements of the movement are rhodium-plated. The base of the movement itself is the familiar ultra-thin micro-rotor calibre manufactured by Vaucher and found in the time-only Slim and various Parmigiani watches.
Topping this dark grey movement is a pair of blue PVD hands. The star of the display is the double moon at 6 o’clock, which is well integrated with its openworked bridge. Hours and minutes are read on a sunray-brushed and dark grey-coloured inner flange. This Squelette Lune is worn on a matte grey alligator strap, closed by a titanium pin buckle.
The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune is released as a non-limited edition watch and priced at USD 20,550. For more details, please visit www.hermes.com.