The SIHH 2018 was Hermès’ first appearance at the Geneva-based show and, for that very reason, they had to make a statement. Using their usual sleek, sophisticated and elegant style, the brand teamed up with designer/architect Marc Berthier to create a contemporary and architectural piece, the new Hermès Carré H. Here’s our first look at this piece.
The handsome Carré H was created by the French architect and designer, Marc Berthier. Its pure, subtle design featured a square (carré in French) curved case. Making its debut at the SIHH, the Parisian luxury powerhouse unveiled its elegant gents’ timepiece with a tasteful facelift. The new Carré H boasts a redesigned case, new dials and a new movement without losing an inch of its Hermès identity.
The case has been slightly enlarged and now measures 38mm x 38mm – versus the 36.5mm x 36.5mm diameter of the original version. It is fashioned out of 316L steel, which is polished and micro bead-blasted. It still features its distinctive rounded corners, creating an elegant, organic shape. Despite the larger dimensions, it wears well and sits comfortably on the wrist.
The dial comes in black or anthracite grey. The different depth and textures create interesting contrasts and plays of light. The center is opaline guilloché, the chapter ring is grained, and the rim features an opaline or sunburst finish. The applied indexes and Arabic numerals are filled with luminescent material and paired with faceted hands. The colorful T-shaped second’s hand is a nice touch. The distinctive font, making use of the zero, creates a pleasing balance.
Turn the watch over and the exhibition case back allows a view of the automatic movement adorned with the brand’s signature H pattern. If the original carré H was powered by the Girard-Perregaux GP3200 automatic caliber (the 10’’’ ½ version of the 3000 series), the 2018 edition beats to the rhythm of the H1912 caliber made with Vaucher (Editor’s note: Hermes has a stake in Vaucher Manufacture). Operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, this high-grade automatic movement can store up to 50 hours of power reserve and comprises 193 components.
The Hermès Carré H is teamed up with a superb Barenia calfskin strap -not that you would expect anything less Hermès- secured with a pin buckle. Price is set at CHF 6,500 with taxes.