The new 36mm Seiko Presage Classic Series “Edo Silk” Models

While the name Presage has been around since the 1960s, it remains one of these hidden gems that only Japan could enjoy, being one of the numerous JDM-only (Japan Domestic Market) ranges. Things changed in 2016, as Seiko decided to revamp the collection entirely and open it to the world. Since then, this collection has become the classic, mechanical-only, craft-oriented portfolio, somehow the exact opposite to the professional-oriented Prospex range. Originally focused on Japanese artistic crafts and cocktail-inspired models, the range has grown significantly to now be home to a wide collection of elegant, vintage-oriented models. And as an extension to the recently launched Seiko Presage Classic Series, the brand introduces the SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524, handsome 36mm “Edo Silk” models. 

The Classic Series is the latest addition to the ever-growing and widely appreciated Presage collection – a range so wide that Presage could almost become a stand-alone brand, with its own sub-collections, such as the Cocktail Time range of accessible, colourful models, the Craftmanship Series with enamel, porcelain or lacquered dials, the edgy and modern Sharp Edged Series or the vintage-inspired Style 60’s. What the Presage Classic Series brings to the equation, and as you’ve probably guessed by its name, is classicism and elegance, with a casual flair. Not too dressy, not too sporty, not too vintage or too modern… In one word, classic. But with the right twist.

First seen in 40mm case, with closed textured dials or Open-Heart display, the Classic Series expands now with 36mm models that shouldn’t be seen as feminine options, but as unisex models that have a more compact flair. Despite the small-ish case, the usual traits of the Presage collection have been retained in the new SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524 models, such as the smooth surfaces of the case and bezel, the discreet facet inside the lugs or the conical crown. But also the rather thick profile of most Seiko watches, only reinforced here by the smaller case. 12.5mm isn’t what I’d call slender for a time-only automatic watch.

Being part of the mid-range collection (the SPBxxx), these new Presage Classic Series “Edo Silk” watches are fitted with a domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a see-through caseback and retain a generous water-resistance of 100 metres. The 41.4mm lug-to-lug measurement might appear too small on paper, but once on the wrist, it brings a certain old-school feeling that only vintage watches offered, and the beauty of a bracelet that wraps around the wrist, and not of a watch that sits on top of the wrist. There’s an undeniable elegance and outdated feeling to such a compact watch on a metal bracelet. Two of the models are in classic brushed and polished steel, while one version (SPB524) adds a touch of luxury with a gold PVD treatment.

The new Presage Classic Series SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524 are nicknamed “Edo Silk” for a reason. Not only do they have a no-date display (great!), but they also come with a new texture inspired by traditional Japanese silk crafts, as well as colours inspired by the Edo period in Japan. The dials have a discreet sunray-like fabric texture, available in Aijiro (light blue – SPB521), Fushi-iro (gradient light brown, my favourite – SPB523) or Shiro-iro (white, paired with gold PVD – SPB524). Classic polished alpha-shaped hands and applied baton markers complete the display.

A great part of the appeal of this new Presage Classic Series comes from its 7-row stainless steel bracelet, which is carried over in these 36mm models. The short links are rounded and ultra-flexible, making for a comfortable wearing experience. The bracelet is closed by a concealed triple-fold clasp with push-button release. As expected, the reference SPB524 comes on a matching PVD gold bracelet.

Inside the case is a modern automatic in-house movement, the calibre 6R51 – the no-date version of the calibre 6R55. Visible under the see-through caseback, this movement is wound by a gold-coloured rotor and benefits from a solid 3-day power reserve. The finishing is minimal, however.

Available as of June 2025, these new 36mm Seiko Presage Classic Series “Edo Silk” references SPB521, SPB523 and SPB524 are priced at EUR 990 in steel and EUR 1,050 in gold PVD-coated steel. For more details, please consult www.seikowatches.com.