The Best Highly Technical Watches From Geneva Watch Week 2025

The intricate world of watchmaking has just gotten a bit more intricate, complex and bewildering. Through several truly technical new watches, we learned there’s still new ground to break, new records to be achieved, and new complications to be introduced. With the aim of helping to digest everything we saw during Watches & Wonders and the surrounding events in Geneva early April, not just for you but for ourselves too, we take another look at some of the most complex and technical new creations! 

Vacheron Constantin les cabinotieres Solaria ultra grand complication

Eight years of development, 41 complications, 13 patent applications, a world premiere display, 1,521 components…. Need I say more? Well, yes, as there is obviously A LOT to talk about when it comes to the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. What better way to celebrate the Maison’s 270th year of continuous high-end mechanical watchmaking than with the new most complicated wristwatch in the world? It is a unique piece which tells you the time, and a whole lot more, including several rarely seen astronomical complications, and several chiming complications.

For more details and the full rundown of what it can do, check out our initial story on this record-breaking watch!

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Speaking of records, it’s of course Bulgari who have once again proven masters in ultra-thin watchmaking with the new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon. Although it is along the lines of what we know the brand is capable of, this is in fact an astonishing new record. The Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon comes in at a wafer-thin 1.85mm, making it the slimmest tourbillon watch to date. Thanks to some very clever construction, it bests the previous record by 0.15mm, which might not sound like much, but in ultra-thin watchmaking is a giant leap!

For more details on this slimmest tourbillon watch to date, head here!

A. Lange & Söhne Perpetual Minute Repeater

Although it might not break records, the new A. Lange & Söhne Perpetual Minute Repeater does break the silence. It does so by means of a pair of hammers striking a set of spiralling gongs on demand, ringing out the time. On top of that, it’s also equipped with a full perpetual calendar display, making for an ultra-complicated watch altogether. In typical AL&S fashion, it is exquisitely finished top to bottom, with a full platinum case and black enamel dial to showcase the brand’s mastery of design, construction and finishing.

For a closer look at this stunner from A. Lange & Söhne, check out our first story here.

Rolex Land-Dweller

Obviously, when discussing technical watches, we have to mention the new Rolex Land-Dweller. We’ve already gone over all the nitty-gritty details, but it deserves praise for being the stepping stone of the all-new Dynapulse escapement. It introduces us to a groundbreaking new, industrially produced and perfectly functioning type of escapement, which is huge! Not to be mistaken with a Natural Escapement, as rumours and patent filings suggested, and aims for two things: high-frequency and high-efficiency. How? That can be read in detail, right here!

We’ve already covered the Land-Dweller in detail a lot, so here’s all you might need!

Patek Philippe Grand Complication 5308G

If we’re talking about technical and complex watchmaking, Patek Philippe is never far. New for this year is the rather stunning white gold and blue Grand Complication 5308G. It combines a minute repeater mechanism, a split seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar in a still quite wearable white gold case with openworked lugs. A total of 799 parts make up the movement, which showcases 13 indications on the fresh ice-blue dial with white and blue hands, markers and window frames.

We haven’t written a dedicated story yet, but here’s a link to a previous edition in platinum and salmon.

Bovet Recital 30 world timer

The phrase “having the world in the palm of your hand” has never been more fitting to a watch than with the Bovet Recital 30 World Timer. Well, apart from the fact it’s on your wrist, obviously. Anyway, the Récital 30 World Timer is an evolution of Bovet’s wonderful Récital 28 Prowess 1 and looks simpler in execution but relies on the same complex mechanical principle. A series of 24 rollers and a pusher in the caseband lets you adjust the World Timer display in accordance with all four annual UTC periods, including DST jumps and irregularities such as New Delhi’s 30-minute offset. If set correctly, it will tell accurate time all year round!

For a closer look at the complex yet practical Recital 30, please see here.

Roger Dubuis Grande Complication

Another milestone watch, marking 30 years of watchmaking under the Roger Dubuis name, is the new Grande Complication. Set in the extravagant Excalibur case, it reveals most of its technicalities on the dial side. The in-house Calibre RD118 is constructed out of 684 components and integrates a minute repeater, perpetual calendar, and flying tourbillon escapement. Energy is provided by not one, but two micro-rotors and everything is finished to the ultra-high standards of the Poinçon de Genève hallmark.

For more details on this extravagant Grande Complication, please head here.