Monochrome Watches
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The New Speake-Marin Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet

With added colour, this new Openworked Tourbillon edition combines traditional craftsmanship and a modern vibe.

| By Denis Peshkov | 3 min read |

In 2020, Speake-Marin expanded its One&Two Openworked series by introducing a mesmerizing 60-second flying tourbillon model. Since its debut, the brand has continually unveiled new iterations, each crafted in limited numbers. These timepieces, sporting the hallmark eccentric layout, showcase the flying tourbillon complication positioned at 1:30. Among these, the latest addition, the Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet, emerges with a captivating twist and redefines the familiar model with a fresh, futuristic aesthetic. 

The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet is housed in the iconic Piccadilly case, a design staple introduced by Speake-Marin back in 2003 and rejuvenated in 2017 under the expert guidance of renowned designer Eric Giroud. Maintaining the tradition of the One&Two collection, this timepiece offers versatility in size, available in both 38mm and 42mm options. Crafted from grade 5 titanium, the case blends brushed and polished surfaces, accentuating its premium appeal. Noteworthy details include a grooved flared crown engraved with the topping tool logo and a screw-down exhibition case back, revealing the intricate inner workings. The 38mm and 42mm variants share a thickness of 12.35mm and offer a water resistance of up to 30 meters, ensuring durability and practicality for everyday wear.

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The openworked, multi-level dial, shielded by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, unveils the classic Speake-Marin signature layout. However, with the addition of the PVD-coated ultra-violet grid, the aesthetic undergoes a transformative shift, evoking a hint of futuristic, space-age technology. Positioned at 1:30, the flying tourbillon features a topping tool-shaped rhodium-plated bridge, meticulously mirror-polished to perfection. Adjacent to it, at 10 o’clock, the barrel cover is engraved with the inscription “One&Two Openworked – Flying Tourbillon” adding a nice touch. The off-centre tungsten micro-rotor occupies a prominent spot at 5 o’clock, adorned with a laser-engraved concentric circle pattern.

The power reserve indicator is placed at 7:30, adding practicality to the equation, boasting a triangular pointer treated with Super-LumiNova for enhanced visibility. The light grey and red dots on the side clearly indicate autonomy left. Completing the ensemble, the black minute’s flange is marked with light grey Super-LumiNova indices at 5-minute intervals, and the rhodium-plated Speake-Marin shaped hands in the centre, treated with luminescent material, provide for easy readability even in low light conditions. Against the backdrop of the rhodium-plated and microbeaded black plate, all the main components of the movement stand out thanks to the ultra-violet frame, creating a mesmerizing visual contrast.

Like its counterparts in the One&Two Openworked Tourbillon series, the Ultra-Violet edition runs on the calibre SMA05, part of Speake-Marin’s portfolio of in-house movements crafted by Le Cercle Des Horlogers. Operating at 21,600 vibrations/hour, the SMA05 ensures an abundant power reserve of 72 hours. Beneath the anti-reflective-coated sapphire crystal of the caseback, the movement showcases traditional decorations, including Cotes de Geneve, circular-graining, and bevelled edges, reflecting the meticulous craftsmanship synonymous with Speake-Marin.

The Openworked Tourbillon Ultra-Violet has a black rubber strap secured by a titanium pin buckle embellished with the brand’s logo. Only four watches are available in the 38mm case (above, left) and five in the 42mm case (above, right), guaranteeing exclusivity. Pricing for these timepieces starts at CHF 79,500 for the 38mm variant and CHF 79,900 for the 42mm, excluding taxes.

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