In the ever-expanding sector of openworked tourbillon watches, where most brands tend to locate the complication at the 6 o’clock position, Speake-Marin’s Openworked Tourbillon model can claim to be the only one that positions its hypnotic whirlwind at 1:30. Introduced in 2019, the Openworked Tourbillon honours its British roots with a cultivated eccentricity manifest in the distinctive Piccadilly case coupled with its signature eccentric layout. The latest Speake-Marin Openworked Tourbillon models reveal their contemporary black skeletonised architecture in two new case materials: matte black DLC-treated titanium and luxurious pink gold. Replete with signature brand details, the new models are available in 38 and 42mm case sizes.
Eccentric dial layouts, in particular small seconds positioned at 1:30, are a staple of Speake-Marin, and many of these references are housed in the One & Two Collection. Introduced in 2016, the One & Two collection is home to the closed Academic and openworked versions of the small seconds and Dual Time in a classic and zesty summer version. For the record, these two new models belong to the brand’s Haute Horlogerie section, although the barrel is engraved with the name “One & Two Openworked Tourbillon”.
38 and 42mm Piccadilly Cases
The stately Piccadilly case is a cornerstone of the brand’s identity. With its drum shape, stepped bezel, straight, rounded lugs with a horizontal bar and fluted crown with an engraved topping tool, it’s hard to mistake with any other case on the market. Refreshed by Eric Giroud, the new-generation case has a thinner profile and more ergonomic lugs. Available in a contemporary matte black DLC-treated titanium case in 38 or 42mm diameters and height of 12.35mm and a rose gold case with the same specifications, the cases alternate polished and brushed finishings.
Naturally, the spectacle here is the black and grey openworked dial exposing the brand’s proprietary SMA05 calibre. Despite the eccentric arrangement of the components, the dial is extremely well balanced thanks to the black symmetrical mainplate with its circular-grained and bevelled finishing framing the indications. The one-minute flying tourbillon at 1:30, with its golden or silver cage replicating the silhouette of a topping tool (brand logo), is counterbalanced by the power reserve indicator at 7:30. Flanking the tourbillon, the large barrel on the upper left side of the dial is mirrored by the micro-rotor on the lower right side of the dial, both engraved with a broken circular pattern. The power reserve indicator, barrel and micro-rotor are held in place by rubies anchored by three openworked and bevelled bridges with a contemporary bead-blasted granulated finishing. In deference to the brand’s roots, the hour and minute hands are the signature spade and whip-style hands (heart-shaped) in black or pink gold and inlaid with Super-LumiNova; the power reserve hand is shaped like an arrow and also filled with lume. To keep the focus on the movement and not clutter the dial, there are no numerals for the hours; instead, there is a raised flange with white markings.
The sapphire crystal caseback allows another view of the proprietary calibre SMA05 developed, assembled and controlled by the “Le Cercle des Horlogers” workshop in Neuchâtel, of which Speake-Marin is a majority shareholder. Operating at a frequency of 21,600vph/3Hz, the movement has 309 components, 35 jewels, and delivers a 72-hour power reserve.
The moulded grey rubber strap underscores the contemporary vibe of these watches and comes with a pin buckle.
Availability & Price
Both the 38mm and 42mm case sizes of the Speake-Marin Openworked Tourbillon, in either material, are limited to 10 pieces each. You can request the price of all four variants at speake-marin.com.