Monochrome Watches
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The New Gold PVD Collection of Baltic (Incl. Video)

A cool JPS-like colour scheme for three classics of the brand.

| By Brice Goulard | 5 min read |

In only a few years, Baltic, a relatively young French brand, has made a name for itself on the market with its cool yet accessible vintage-inspired watches. And while Baltic has quite a complete collection already, the brand has decided to bring something new this year by revisiting three of its most elegant classics with a black-and-gold touch. Should we call them the John Player Specials?  Here is the Gold PVD collection of Baltic, with new editions of the MR01, the HMS and the Bicompax. And check our video above for a live look at these new releases. 

With the Gold PVD capsule, Baltic strengthens its core collection. All three watches are based on existing and successful models, which are retro-styled, rather compact and elegant watches with a twist. Up until now, stainless steel was the only choice available for the MR01, the HMS 002 and the Bicompax 002 (these being the previous generation of this collection, with a slightly larger case than the new 003 models). This year, the brand adds gold… but knowing the brand’s usual price strategy, a PVD coating has been chosen to keep things accessible. And to push the refinement and cool factor to the max, these watches have been given contrasting black dials with gold-coloured accents. A vintage style that is warm, elegant and yet visually striking. 

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The Baltic MR01 Gold PVD

The first of the three models is based on the MR01. Inspired by time-only icons of the 1940s, such as the Calatrava, this watch made a strong impact at the time of its launch. Its case is compact and slim, measuring only 36mm in diameter, about 10mm in thickness and 44mm in length. And it comes with a stepped bezel and an ultra-domed hesalite crystal, typical of the 1940s. 

For the occasion, its steel case has been coated in yellow gold PVD while maintaining brushed sides and polished finishings on the lugs and bezel. The other evolution concerns the dial, and it’s not only the black colour. The handsome Breguet numerals and the leaf hands are also gold-coated. The dial has changed compared to the classic editions, as it’s now glossy with gold-coloured tracks – creating the effect of a vintage gilt dial. The Saffiano black strap brings the finishing touch of elegance.

Another talking point of the MR01 is its movement, as it is powered by an automatic micro-rotor engine. Made by the Hangzhou factory, and despite being an accessible movement, it elevates the watch to a whole different level. Visible through a transparent back, it boasts 42 hours of power reserve. It will be available in mid-December at EUR 545. 

Quick facts: 36mm x 9.9mm – 44mm length – steel case with gold PVD coating – hesalite crystal and see-through back – 30m water-resistant – black glossy dial, gold-PVD Breguet numerals and hands, gilt-like printings – Hangzhou CAL5000A micro-rotor automatic, 42h power reserve, 4Hz frequency – black calf leather strap – available second week of December 2023 – EUR 545 (excl. taxes)

The Baltic HMS 002 and Bicompax 002 Gold PVD

The two other watches are a well-known pair and share most of the design elements. One is a time-only model, the HMS 002, the other is a two-counter chronograph, the Bicompax 002. Both watches have the same 38mm case with a handsome stepped profile – again, an ode to pre-war watches. Made from a single piece of gold PVD-coated stainless steel, these two watches are mostly brushed, with polished touches on the crown and pushers and the top of the bezel. A domed hesalite crystal on top adds a cool retro charm, as well as a warm touch. Both the HMS and Bicompax are quite compact on the wrist, with a 47mm lug-to-lug measurement and a height of 13mm. 

Just like the first model we’ve presented, these two watches have a JPS-like black-and-gold dial. And again, the dial is not just a change of colour. Sober, a bit Art Deco in style, the dials now have a glossy central sector, while the charter ring is brushed. The applied numerals and the hands are all gold-coloured, and the printed tracks mimic a vintage gilt dial. 

Turn the gold PVD Bicompax over, and you’ll see yet another cool movement. Made by Seagull, this hand-wound chronograph with a column wheel is modelled after vintage Venus architecture and participates a lot in the appeal of this watch. The gold PVD HMS also has a see-through back but is powered by a more modern movement sourced from Japanese maker Miyota. A reliable movement allows a fair price but also a solid power reserve of 60 hours.

Contrasting with the gold colour of the case and bringing an almost Tuxedo style, these two models are worn on a Saffiano black leather strap. The Bicompax model will be available in mid-December at EUR 565 and the HMS version at the end of January 2024 at EUR 385. 

Quick facts – HMS 002: 38mm x 13mm – 47mm length – steel case with gold PVD coating – hesalite crystal and see-through back – 50m water-resistant – black glossy and brushed sector dial, gold-PVD applied markers, numerals and hands, gilt-like printings – Miyota 8315, automatic, 3Hz frequency, 60h power reserve – black calf leather strap – available end of January 2024 – EUR 385 (excl. taxes)

Quick facts – Bicompax 002: 38mm x 13mm – 47mm length – steel case with gold PVD coating – hesalite crystal and see-through back – 50m water-resistant – black glossy and brushed sector dial, gold-PVD applied markers, numerals and hands, gilt-like printings – Seagull ST1901, hand-wound column-wheel chronograph, 42h power reserve, 3Hz frequency – available second week of December 2023 – EUR 565 (excl. taxes)

Altogether, this new gold PVD collection by Baltic doesn’t revolutionize the brand’s offering, but it adds a more elegant, dressier product – Tuxedo-style watches at accessible prices. This is your time to finally get a proper dress watch. For more details, please visit

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