The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic collection at Watches & Wonders 2024. A variation around the Annual Calendar concept presented a few years ago, the new Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon retains the clever calendar function and adds a charming moon phase indication, all back in the inaugural case shape that started it all in 2010.

For this new, extremely elegant watch, Laurent Ferrier has decided to go back to its classics, with a watch encased in the original design of 2010, the Galet case. Smooth, gentle curves all around and 40mm diameter are paired with a domed sapphire crystal and a ball-shaped crown. No angles are visible here, bringing back the classic stylistic codes for which the brand is known. Available in polished steel or 18k 5N red gold, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon is all about discreet luxury. As always with the brand, there is no AR coating to be found on the sapphire, a deliberate choice of Laurent, who loves the reflections over the dial (my photo skills like it less…).

A more sophisticated take on the traditional layout of a full calendar (more details here), the Classic Moon goes a few steps further by incorporating an annual calendar – a mechanism that automatically takes into account months of 30 or 31 days and only requires one correction a year, at the transition between February and March. As such, this watch is an evolution of the Montre Ecole Annual Calendar presented in 2018, which I’ve always considered a masterpiece of elegance and balance. Not only does LF add a moon complication, but the display has been slightly reworked with bevelled windows for the days and months. The dial now features slender Roman numerals and baton markers, together with a classic railroad minutes track and a peripheral date. The hands, made of gold (with white paint for the steel model), have the brand’s signature Assegai shape.

Also, some will notice that the small seconds counter has been enlarged, and that is to make room for the main novelty: a moon phase indicator. A first for the watchmaker, an enigmatic dark blue moon disc represents the cycles of the moon. First, aventurine glass from Murano artisans is engraved to create the shape of the moon and stars with hand-applied white paint for the details. The moon and stars are then hand-filled with Super-LumiNova and fired at high temperatures. Afterwards, the Super-LumiNova is engraved to create craters on the moon’s surface. Finally, a translucent petrol blue enamel applique is applied on top. This double moon indicates the phases of the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

Two editions of the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon are released: stainless steel with an opaline grey-blue dial with pastel blue contrast, white-toned hands, and a hand-sewn dark grey Nubuck strap; and 18k red gold with a vertically brushed silver dial with petrol blue accents, ruthenium-treated white gold hands, and a brown calf leather strap.

The opened back reveals a movement that appears, at first, identical to the hand-wound base of the Montre Ecole Annual Calendar. This calibre LF126.02, while sharing the same base with a classic Swiss lever escapement, is a redesigned and improved version with an 80-hour power reserve. Over 30 new components have been added to create this new calibre. A power reserve indicator is positioned on the caseback side, and the long blade ratchet pawl is still in place. Finishing is top-notch with rhodium-treated Côtes de Genève, circular graining, hand-polished bevelled bridges and polished screw heads.

Released as part of the permanent collection, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar will be priced at CHF 70,000 in steel and CHF 80,000 in gold (prices excl. VAT).

For more details, please consult LaurentFerrier.ch.