Fratello Watches, our fellow Dutch (in origin at least) watch platform, has once again presented a tantalising limited edition. Partnering with Louis Moinet, the inventor of the chronograph, Fratello chose to mix up the latest chapter in the brand’s long and record-setting lineage of the chronograph watch. From the very first to the very latest, the Memoris is kept alive, thanks to Jean-Marie Schaller, founder and owner of present-day Louis Moinet. With a subtle Dutch twist as the outcome, both teams worked together on a 25-piece run of watches called the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition.
Louis Moinet is credited with the creation of the first-ever mechanical chronograph and high-frequency stopwatch in 1816. It has been verified by the Guinness World Records association and, to this day, serves as inspiration for Louis Moinet. The spirit of the historic monopusher chronograph is visible in the Memoris and Memoris Spirit collections, with a large single pusher and the signature dial layout with an off-centred hours and minutes sub-dial and the main dial dominated by the chronograph display.
The Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph uses the platform of the recently presented compact version of the Memoris. With the reduction in size from a massive 46mm to a wrist-friendlier 40.7mm also came a restyled case. The Memoris Spirit looks cleaner, more modern and dynamic compared to its (much) larger brother. A domed sapphire crystal leaves no room for a bezel and opens up the dial as much as possible. Other retouches include skeletonised lugs and more refined crown guards.
With the introduction of the Memoris Spirit, Fratello jumped at the chance to use this as a platform for their collaborative piece with Louis Moinet. Both teams worked closely on this limited edition, with only minor changes to differentiate it from the standard collection. Minor, but with a surprising impact! The deep blue base serves as a canvas for the chronograph mechanism, which is encircled by a black minute flange with an orange track. The lower half of the “dial” has a two-part hour and minute sub-dial in black, with an orange ring, white numerals and applied silver indices and hands. Above that, we once again see the sapphire crystal sub-dials for the small seconds and chronograph minutes. The orange colour, RAL 2005, by the way, continues in the central chronograph seconds and off-set chronograph minute hands. Other details include “00” instead of “60” in the outer minute track and a small silver seconds hand to split the timing and chronograph displays visually.
Around the back, a sapphire crystal reveals the proprietary LM84 automatic chronograph movement. While technically no different from the standard models, Fratello chose to have the rotor finishes in black with a subtle orange outline surrounding the guilloché pattern and Fleur de Lys decoration. The movement uses 311 components and runs at a frequency of 28,800vph whilst providing 48 hours of autonomy.
The Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph comes on a matte black calfskin leather strap with a crocodile-effect embossing. The triple-folding clasp is done in the shape of a Fleur de Lys, Louis Moinet’s logo. Produced in a run of just 25 pieces and exclusively available through Fratello’s webshop from August 16th at 6 AM CET, it will cost EUR 29,500 (excl. tax).