The Louis Moinet Memoris ‘Red Eclipse’ is an integrated, automatic, inverted mono-pusher chronograph with column-wheel. It was first presented in a limited edition at Baselworld 2016 to celebrate the bi-centenary of the Compteur de Tierce (1816-2016) by Louis Moinet. This complex chronograph, with all its mechanics visible on the dial, is now available in a richly engraved pink gold version. Let’s take a closer look.
The Louis Moinet Memoris was designed as a tribute to the creation of the astonishing Compteurs de Tierces and the astronomic observations of Louis Moinet. According to the markings on the case, this remarkable creation was designed in 1815-1816 (thus, possibly the first chronograph ever) to time the passage of the stars – it measures time intervals to the 60th of a second with start, stop and reset functions. To reach this impressive precision its balance wheel beats at an impressive 216,000 vibrations per hour.
The 1815-1816 Louis Moinet Compteur de Tierces
The Louis Moinet Memoris is an integrated, automatic, inverted mono-pusher chronograph with column-wheel – unusually, the chronograph mechanism, in particular the column-wheel at 12 o’clock and the horizontal clutch, has been shifted to the dial side (it is usually positioned at the back of the watch). This architecture is as superb as it is educational.
The column wheel is the traditional system that commands the start, stop and reset functions. As it rotates by increments, the chronograph parts are driven by levers that fall into and out of the spaces between the teeth. The clutch: the usual system of the chronograph is based on the connection between the chronograph and the regular timekeeping gear trains. This coupling is traditionally done horizontally by a gear which is free to pivot and allows the connection of the gear train to the chronograph center wheel. This is clearly visible on the Louis Moinet Memoris. The small wheel in between the 9 o’clock wheel (small seconds) and the center wheel (chronograph seconds) is driven by the column-wheel and allows for the engaging and disengaging of the chronograph.
The exclusive caliber LM54 of the Memoris has been developed and manufactured with Concepto in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It features high-grade finishing with nice bevels and fine polishing. The starry sky visible under the chronograph parts is worked on the main plate using a traditional rose engine lathe. The hours and minutes are off-centered at 6 o’clock and indicated by “Gouttes de Rosée” hands on an enamel dial. The rail-tracks for the small seconds and chronograph indications come in white on subsidiary transparent dials and on the flange framing the movement. The depth of the watch’s face, with each part capturing light on its various surfaces, is eye-catching.
The 46mm case is 18k pink gold and is richly hand-engraved. It features a domed sapphire crystal framed by the brand’s distinctive 6-screw bezel. To enhance grip, the mushroom chronograph pusher has been engraved with a chequered motif. The crown is adorned with a heraldic lily, a symbol of Royalty and the logo of the brand. The sapphire back offers a nice view of the other side of the movement, including its rotor embellished with a “red moon” in enamel.
The Louis Moinet Memoris Red Eclipse in engraved pink gold is paired with an alligator strap fit with an 18K gold folding buckle adorned with the brand’s lily logo. It will be released in a limited edition of 12 pieces, at CHF 110,000 each. For more information on Louis Moinet you can visit their website at www.louismoinet.com.
Technical specifications – Louis Moinet ‘Memoris’ Red Eclipse in pink gold
- Case: 46 mm x 15.75 mm – 18k pink gold – sapphire crystal on the front and on the back – water resistant to 50m
- Movement: Calibre LM54 – mechanical with automatic winding – 30.40mm x 8.90mm – 48h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – 34 jewels – off-centre hours and minutes, small seconds, column-wheel chronograph.
- Strap: alligator leather with alligator lining on 18k gold folding buckle
- Price: CHF 110,000