During its initial release of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in 2021, A. Lange & Söhne presented two versions: a pink-gold model with a dark grey dial and a quickly sold-out limited edition of 150 pieces in white gold with a solid pink-gold (often referred to as salmon) dial. This year, the renowned Saxon watchmaker is unveiling a Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar model featuring a black dial, and housed in a luxurious platinum case. Let’s take a look.
In comparison to its earlier counterparts, the alterations are purely aesthetic. The familiar Lange 1 case maintains its dimensions, measuring 41.9mm in diameter and 12.1mm in height, which may seem substantial and weighty but is consistent with most intricate Lange timepieces. The black dial of this platinum edition watch is crafted from solid silver, with the moon phase indicator and its solid-gold celestial disc with graduated blue hues commanding attention as the brightest element against a predominantly black backdrop adorned with white markings.
In keeping with the Lange 1 unique style, the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar dial’s layout deviates from the traditional QPs as seen in the Langematic Perpetual, opting for a classic off-centred Lange 1 style instead. The date indication employs Lange’s signature oversized date display, while the retrograde day of the week indicator is positioned between 8 and 10 o’clock. The month is conveyed via a ring encircling the dial’s outer edge, and the leap year indication is presented in a small window at the six o’clock position. A moon-phase and day/night indicator combination occupies the seconds sub-dial. The hours and minutes are read from the off-centre display on the right. This asymmetric QP layout of the Lange 1 conveys a wealth of information without visual complexity, striking a balance between legibility and aesthetic appeal, Saxon-style.
Although the dial of the Lange 1 Perpetual closely resembles that of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, the movement is entirely distinct. The calibre L021.3, influenced by the architecture of the L021.1 found in the Lange 1 Daymatic but enhanced with the perpetual calendar complications, has undergone significant reengineering and enhancements. The resulting L021.3 is an attractive calibre, both visually and technically, as discussed in our review following the 2021 launch. It’s worth noting that all calendar indications on the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar change instantaneously, which provides a delightful display at midnight when the month transitions. Also, the white-gold moon performs its orbital move in 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds ‒ so the display needs to be corrected by one day after 122.6 years, provided the watch never stopped running.
The new version of the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar is paired with a black hand-stitched leather strap and secured on the wrist with a platinum prong buckle. The pricing information is available upon request; in 2021, it was in the area of EUR 100,000.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com.