The A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual Limited Anniversary Edition with Blue Dial (Live Pics & Price)
The Langematik Perpetual turns 20 and is dressed in a sharp new blue suit in white or pink gold cases.
When A. Lange & Söhne unveiled the Langematik Perpetual in 2001, it was the first mechanical wristwatch to combine a perpetual calendar with Lange’s signature outsize date. Revisited in different case materials over the years, the 20th anniversary of the Langematik Perpetual is celebrated with two models, one in white gold the other in pink gold, both with a striking blue dial and limited to 50 pieces each.
Just seven years after Lange’s resuscitation in 1994, the Saxon watchmaker launched one of the finest perpetual calendars on the scene today. Flexing its horological muscles, Lange’s perpetual calendar stands out from other calendar watches with its patented zero-reset mechanism and corrector to advance all the calendar displays simultaneously. The perpetual calendar functions account for the different durations of the months, including leap years and, once the watch is correctly set and kept ticking, you won’t have to adjust the date display until 2100.
Günter Blümlein, co-founder and first CEO of the revived brand, was a key figure in the development of the Langematik Perpetual subscribing to his vision that “our watches must be classic and understated in looks, sleek, useful and German in nature”. With its hallmark outsize date window commanding the upper half of the dial and well-organised display of calendar functions, the Langematik Perpetual is a Saxon product to the core. Still the only Saxonia model with Roman numerals, the perpetual calendar model is one of the most classical and traditional models in the family.
Like the white gold version with a black dial of 2014 and the luxurious honey gold model released in 2019 to celebrate its 18th birthday, the case size measures 38.5mm and has a slim height of 10mm. Available in warm pink or elegant white gold, the case displays mirror-polished surfaces on the bezel and lugs and brushed case sides. The recessed corrector at 10 o’clock allows you to adjust all the calendar functions collectively. Alternatively, the functions can also be set individually with recessed correctors on the case.
The novelty of this 20th-anniversary edition is the handsome blue dial. Although the layout of all the functions is respected, the crisp blue background provides a good dose of contrast. The dial base is solid silver, and the embossed ring with fine fluting on the dial is machined directly on the silver surface. The calendar functions are arranged in two recessed and snailed sub-counters: the days of the week and the two-tone blue and white day/night indicator are at 9 o’clock, and the month with a small intersecting leap year indicator is at 3 o’clock. A highly precise moon phase complication that will only need a one-day adjustment in 122.6 years is displayed at 6 o’clock and doubles up as a small seconds counter. To match the case material, the hands and appliqués of the white gold model are rhodium-plated gold. The pink gold model has pink gold hands and appliqués, and like the white gold, it has luminous dots on the hour and a streak of lume in the hour, minute, day and month hands.
CALIBRE L922.1 SAX-O-MAT
The new Langematik Perpetual models use the same calibre (the L922.1, based on the Sax-O-Mat movement) that powered the first 2001 model. Lange’s patented zero-reset mechanism means that when the crown is pulled, the movement stops, and the seconds hand jumps to zero. This allows the minute hand to be precisely aligned with the respective minute marker, and the watch can be simply and accurately synchronised. With its diameter of 30.4mm and thin height of 5.7mm, the in-house movement is distinguished by its bidirectional winding three-quarter rotor to generate the 46-hour power reserve. The benefit of having a small rotor, crafted in 21k yellow gold with a platinum ring to add centrifugal mass, means that it doesn’t obscure the view of the balance and the beautifully hand-engraved balance cock.
Like all Lange’s movements, the finishings are spectacular: the rotor is decorated with brushed and frosted surfaces; the three-quarter plate and bridges are decorated with Glashütte ribbing, the bevels are polished, and the scenery is enlivened with a touch of colour from the blued screws and gold chatons bearing the rubies.
Availability & price
Both the white gold (Ref. 310.028) and pink gold (Ref. 310.037) Langematik Perpetual models come with a dark blue hand-stitched leather strap and a prong buckle in gold to match the case. Each is limited to 50 pieces and will retail for EUR 91,000 (incl. taxes).
More information at A. Lange & Söhne.
Particularly beautiful in white gold (what would you call this style – understated baroque?), it comes very close to being as desirable as the Lange 1 Perpetual. But I don’t have to fuss over the choice as I can’t afford either. Damnit.