In this hectic moment that is the month following Baselworld, we wanted to go back to the SIHH 2015 and to a watch introduced there in all discretion. From Jaeger-LeCoultre, we’ve seen several novelties this year, including the impressive Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, the superb Duometre Spherotourbillon Moon or the vintage-inspired Grande Reverso 1931 Seconde Centrale. Regardless of the interest we had in these timepieces, there was also a watch introduced this year that fully represents what Jaeger can do on a ‘consumer-oriented‘ side. Here is the Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 now with black dial.
This watch is neither a tourbillon, nor a minute repeater or a skeleton chronograph. Instead, it shows what Jaeger-LeCoultre does on a daily basis, the watches that are really produced and sold – of course Jaeger sells tourbillons and minute repeaters but figures are way below those of the classical Master or Reverso watches. It is a visually simple, slim elegant watch, with a reasonable price, an interesting horological content (1000 hours control) and a lot of charm. Of course, it isn’t as slim as the ultra-ultra-slim Master Ultra Thin 1907 we reviewed. Of course, it is not as cool as the vintage re-edition of the Geophysic. However, it is a very balanced and classy watch for those requesting discretion and class.
The Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon 39 itself isn’t a novelty. It was introduced at the SIHH 2012 and it is now available in rose gold with an Eggshell beige dial (priced at 16.200 Euros), in rose gold with a slate dial (priced at 16.600 Euros) and in stainless steel with a silver dial (priced at 8.350 Euros). This year, it comes in the same stainless steel case but with an elegant and more modern black sunburst dial. The case uses the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre Master shape, with slim and bevelled lugs, slim bezel, large opening of the dial and a full polished finish. This watch shows very reasonable dimensions, as the diameter is retrained at 39mm and the height at 9.9mm – what we would call a slim watch instead of an ultra-thin watch…
Balanced is the word that could best define the face of the Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon 39. There’s nothing shocking or disturbing by its presence. The dial is slightly domed – something very reminiscent of the 1960s vintage dress watches. It has only 12 applied facetted indexes, a minute track and the logo of the brand on the dial. Nothing more, nothing less… Except the sub-dial at 6 that comprises both the moon-phase indicator and the date, displayed by a hand that points a date-track around the moon-phase. The dauphine hands are also very simple but show a nice angle of finishing, with one side that is polished and the other side sandblasted (making them visible in every light condition, except during the night as there is no luminous coating, something usual in dress watches).
Inside the Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon 39 ticks an in-house movement, developed and manufactured by Jaeger. The calibre 925 is only 4.9 mm thick (don’t forget that we’re in front of a self-winding movement and thus featuring a rotor on the top). It indicates hours, minutes, seconds, moon-phase and date. It comprises of 246 parts, of which 30 jewels, and delivers 43 hours of power reserve when fully wound. Finishing is pleasant with circular Geneva stripes, blued screws, polished bevelled angles on the bridges and circular graining on the main plate.
The main feature of this Jaeger Calibre 925 is its certification, the ‘Master Control 1000 Hours’, meaning that it is tried and tested on precision and reliability for 1,000 hours (nearly 6 weeks), before being delivered to the client. The Manufacture tests and certifies finished watches, reproducing the conditions of real life wear, and not only movements like the COSC can do.
The Jaeger-Lecoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon 39 Black dial comes on an alligator leather strap with double folding buckle. On the wrist, it is clearly not the most impressive watch from Jaeger but it clearly stands for ‘balanced’ and ‘elegant’. It is the demonstration of what a refined dress watch should be – and one with a nice horological content. It should be priced around the same as the silver edition, meaning an approximate 8.500 Euros.
More on www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.
Movement Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 925
- Number of pieces : 246
- Vibrations per hour : 28800
- Power-reserve : 38 Hours
- Jewels : 30
- Barrel : 1
- Height : 4.90 mm
- Hour – Minute
- Moon phases
- Stainless Steel
- Water resistance : 5 bar
- Diameter : 39mm
- Thickness : 9.9mm
- Alligator Leather
- Double Folding Buckle 18.0 mm