Cyrus is an independent brand of eleven years, with an atelier in Le Locle, Switzerland, which is overseen by famous watchmaker Jean-François Mojon. Low volume, radically designed pieces are produced in-house with a modern vibe. We looked at the Klepcys Vertical Skeleton Tourbillon a couple of years ago and were impressed by the open and eccentric design with a rare vertical tourbillon. The Klepcys GMT Retrograde introduces a new movement from Mojon in three watch cases, separated by different titanium finishes. In Cyrus style, the watches are unconventional yet more familiar than others in a layout like the Klepcys Moon. Let’s take a closer look at this latest GMT.
Three grade 5 titanium case options have a cushion shape with a natural finish, black DLC finish or partial black DLC finish on the bezel. They have a contemporary size of 42mm in diameter and 13.9mm in height, which is also the brand’s first (smaller) 42mm case. You’ll immediately notice two equal crowns at 3 and 9 o’clock, almost like two wheels on an axle. The 3 o’clock crown sets the local time and can wind the watch, while the 9 o’clock counterpart sets the GMT hand via a push button. The front has a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating and the exhibition case back is also sapphire. The strap on all cases is a black customized caoutchouc rubber with a folding clasp. Water-resistance is rated at 100 metres.
The dial won’t be confusing at first glance as there are conventional hour and minute hands with white Arabic numerals spanning the perimeter. Those numerals are set on a sapphire crystal ring with Super-LumiNova, seemingly floating above the dial. A black minute ring with Super-LumiNova marking every five minutes sits angled at the outmost perimeter. An inner blue lacquered ring with luminescent 24-hour numerals and marks surrounds the retrograde GMT hand, which has a triangular tip with lume.
The open-worked hour and minute hands are rhodium plated with Super-LumiNova inserts, while the seconds hand is actually a helix within a black sub-dial sporting an engraved triangular pattern. A luminescent insert on single-arm tracks the seconds. Interestingly, the case back’s screws are also shaped like a helix. All Super-LumiNova is white with a blue glow. With all of this going on, the dial is still open-worked with the mainspring, gears and bridges on full display.
Powering the Klepcys GMT Retrograde is the latest movement from Mojon, the calibre CYR708 automatic. Comprised of 278 parts, it has 41 jewels, beats at 28,800vph (4Hz) with a 55-hour power reserve. Functions include hours, minutes, small seconds and retrograde GMT hand. The rotor is open-worked and decorations are subtle with an anthracite grey finish throughout featuring a contrasting sunray pattern and microbillé.
The design may be unconventional, but operation is easy via the twin crowns and the dial is straight forward, making this an excellent choice for frequent travellers.
Each of the three versions of the Cyrus Klepcys GMT Retrograde is limited to 50 pieces, and prices start from EUR 18,100. For more information, visit the Cyrus website.