Hands-On Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hémisphère Rétrograde
The Toric was the first watch ever designed by Michel Parmigiani back in 1996. The collection was reintroduced at SIHH 2017 with the elegant Toric Chronomètre, a subdued, less complex take on the original case design. It is now presented in a stylish travel watch version with the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde. The result is simply superb and the model won first prize in the prestigious 2017 GPHG Travel Time Category. Read on to learn more.
Fashioned out of pink gold, the elegant case stands out with the unique, stepped bezel that alternates gadroons and knurling (leaving the imprint of the Toric signature notches in the metal). The finely polished, softly curved lugs offer a nice contrast with the bezel. The harmonious, ergonomically sound Toric curves were initially inspired by the golden ratio. 42 mm in diameter, the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde wears well while it makes an impression on the wrist with its dual crowns.
The model is powered by the cleverly designed automatic calibre PF317. With it, Parmigiani Fleurier is taking technical sophistication and practicality a bit further than the conventional GMT watches. The base movement also drives an additional module (developed with Agenhor) which can be adjusted independently to the nearest minute via a second crown. This ensures perfect sync with local time, even for places with a half-hour or quarter-hour difference from the full hour times set from GMT. The second time is shown in a subdial at 12 o’clock and is complemented with a day/night indication.
It also features a day/night indication for the local time. It is displayed at 6 o’clock, coaxially to the small seconds. Last, an instant retrograde calendar is indicated with a third central hand. Made of no fewer than 316 components, the calibre PF317 is a twin-barrel calibre running at 28,800vph with a 50-hour power reserve.
The main crown is used to wind the movement and set the local time and the date. The subsidiary crown to adjust the second time-zone, disengaging the additional mechanism from the ‘motor’ movement. The original exhibition case-back, with its off-centered sapphire glass, is opened to the base calibre only, while the additional mechanism built around it remains hidden. The rotor is guilloche and in 22-carat gold. The movement is finely decorated with Geneva stripes and ‘perlage’.
The Toric Hémispère Rétrograde is presented with a superb grained dial, which is clean and understated despite the numerous functions. These are clearly indicated. The central hour and minute hands feature the signature Toric javelin shape, gold plated and coated with luminescent material. Meanwhile, the hands of the second time zone are rhodium-plated to present a more discreet shade. Last, the retrograde date hand features a red crescent moon indicator.
The Toric Hémispère Rétrograde is worn on a beautiful, smooth black alligator strap crafted by Hermès and secured by a pink gold folding buckle emblazoned with the PF logo. For more information, please visit www.parmigianifleurier.com.
Technical specifications – Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Hémisphère Rétrograde
- Case: 42.8 mm pink gold case – sapphire crystal with antireflective coating – sapphire case back – 3 ATM / 30 m water resistant
- Movement: calibre PF317 mechanical with automatic winding – Ø 35.6 mm x 5.45 mm – 50h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations/h – 28 jewels – 316 components – hours, minutes, small seconds, retrograde date, second-time-zone and day/night indication
- Strap: alligator leather strap with pink gold folding buckle
- Reference: pfc493-1002400-ha1442
- Price: CHF 29,500
Love the overall finish of this watch, but feel the dial would have looked better ,if the date numbers and the date hand were more discreet.
Perhaps a small circular sub dial.