The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Returns with CPCP-Inspired XII Dial

Among other watches presented in Geneva this week, Cartier unveils a new interpretation of one of the brand’s celebrated models, the Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph, to expand its highly desirable Cartier Privé collection. Following the model’s praised return in 2024, the brand introduces a platinum edition with a dial inspired by the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) models of the late 1990s and early 2000s. For many collectors, this design, distinguished by beaded hour markers and the oversized Roman numeral XII, is among the most elegant executions in the Tortue series. With its platinum case, historic monopusher chronograph architecture and the return of one of Cartier’s most beloved CPCP dial designs, this new Tortue Monopoussoir stands as one of the most compelling releases in the current Cartier Privé lineup.

Like early 20th century case designs such as the Santos, Tonneau, and Tank, the Tortue, introduced in 1912, quickly became one of Cartier’s defining forms, characterised by its gently curved profile resembling a turtle shell, hence the name. A monopusher chronograph version of the Tortue, an elegant wrist chronograph operated through a single pusher integrated into the crown, appeared in the late 1920s, powered by movements supplied by the European Watch & Clock Co., a joint venture between Cartier and Edmond Jaeger.

The Tortue Monopoussoir achieved its cult status with the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP), produced between 1998 and 2008. Mechanical watchmaking was regaining prominence, and the CPCP project sought to revive historical Cartier designs using refined hand-wound movements made in collaboration with leading movement specialists. The CPCP Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph was powered by calibre 045MC, developed by THA Ébauche, the movement workshop founded by Vianney Halter, Denis Flageollet and François-Paul Journe. The watch combined a beautifully proportioned Tortue case with an exceptional hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement and distinctive dial executions that have since become highly collectable.

One of the most admired variants featured a large Roman numeral XII and distinctive beaded hour markers, and the new Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph in platinum revives this celebrated dial configuration, subtly modernising certain details. The silvered opaline dial features applied, rhodium-finished beaded hour markers around the perimeter, an oversized Roman numeral XII, and a traditional railroad minute track in burgundy. Triangular motifs, another feature of the earlier Tortue monopoussoir models, adorn the dial’s four corners. The blued hands indicate time and chronograph functions.

The case remains largely unchanged from the 2024 reintroduction. Crafted in 950 platinum, it measures 34.8mm wide by 43.7mm long, with a thickness of 10.2mm. The curved profile ensures a comfortable fit on the wrist, while polished surfaces highlight the refined lines of the Tortue shape. The chronograph is operated by a single push-piece integrated into the crown with a ruby cabochon. Water-resistance is 30m.

The watch is powered by the Cartier calibre 1928 MC, a hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement specifically developed with Le Cercle des Horlogers to match the curved Tortue case. At 4.3mm thick, it is currently Cartier’s thinnest chronograph calibre. The movement uses a column wheel and horizontal clutch system and operates at 28,800 vibrations/hour, offering a 44-hour power reserve. The bridges follow the curvature of the case and are decorated with Côtes de Genève, visible through the sapphire caseback.

The Tortue Monopoussoir in platinum is worn on a semi-matt burgundy alligator leather strap, closed with a platinum pin buckle. Although official pricing is yet to be confirmed, the watch is expected to retail around EUR 55,000, placing it in line with previous platinum editions of the model. For more details, please visit cartier.com.