Monochrome Watches
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The new Baltic MR Roulette Collection, Bringing Vintage Calatrava Vibes

The brand's Calatrava-inspired compact watch now with a modernist sector dial.

| By Brice Goulard | 3 min read |

Founded in 2017 by Etienne Malec and friends, Baltic continues its rapid expansion to the point of not being able to use the term micro-brand anymore… Now an established watch brand with a comprehensive collection, ranging from racing chronographs to dive watches and adventure-themed models, Baltic also ventured into the world of dress watches with success, releasing its Calatrava-inspired MR01 collection in 2021. It is now time for the first evolution of this watch as we’re discovering the new Baltic MR Roulette Collection, in a style that was teased a couple of years ago in a collaboration model.

The new Baltic MR Roulette is basically a dial evolution of the classic MR01 model (with minor adjustments on the case too). As such, all the great ingredients of the original compact dress watch are kept intact. What it does is add the striking vintage roulette-styled, Patek-inspired dial of the collaboration with A Collected Man to the permanent collection. This art-deco, highly graphic and original dial is, like the rest of the watch, a tribute to the early Calatrava 96 watch. A rare display even in the past, the roulette dial is inspired by casinos and adds a graphic, geometric touch to an otherwise highly traditional model.

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For the Baltic MR Roulette, there are four colours available at launch, including salmon, black, silver and blue. Allow me a personal comment, as the owner of one of these ACM x Baltic versions. Considering that the collab model with ACM also had a blue dial, even though slightly different in tone, I would have not made this MR Roulette available in blue… Just to keep this limited edition more exclusive. End of my comment, back to the watch.

The whole point with the MR Roulette is this multi-sector, multi-layer and asymmetrical dial design that adds something oddly modern yet very vintage to the watch. It relies on two brushed sectors – one of the minutes, one of the hours – with a unique serif typography for the numerals, over a grained base (except the black with a glossy base). Another difference with the classic MR01 with its Breguet numerals, the time is here indicated by faceted, polished dauphine hands (instead of leaf-shaped hands). The sub-second counter is still placed at 7 o’clock, bringing its dosage of originality to the watch.

What remains (almost) intact is the great case and its compact proportions. Measuring only 36mm in diameter, yet with enough presence due to the 44mm length, this watch is all about the classic Calatrava style, with its flat coin-edge bezel and central case with integrated lugs – this 3-part construction was one of the main elements of the original Calatrava 96. Equipped with a domed hesalite crystal and a see-through caseback, the MR Roulette shows one major difference with the MR01; the top surface of the bezel is now vertically brushed and not polished, giving a more industrial vibe.

At the heart of the Baltic MR Roulette is still the Hangzhou-sourced micro-rotor movement. While surely not the finest of movements in terms of decoration or precision, considering the price, it really does elevate the watch with its winding system often seen in much more expensive models. This relatively large movement nicely fills the back of the watch and shows various machine-made finishings (golden rotor, stripes, blue screws). It runs at a 4Hz frequency and stores 42 hours of power reserve.

Now available for orders, with deliveries starting on July 15th, the Baltic MR Roulette collection retails from EUR 545 (excl. taxes) or EUR 654 (incl. VAT). It is available on calf leather straps or multiple steel bracelet options (BoR, flat link…) Note that the first 100 watches of each model will be numbered. For more details, please visit baltic-watches.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/baltic-mr-roulette-collection-calatrava-micro-rotor-review-price/

10 responses

  1. Another owner of the ACM model here. Good thing is, the grey market prices for the ACM model will now fall, which gives me a good feeling wearing mine. Still feels a bit “meh”. At least the ACM blue is more vibrant.

  2. @ Maciej – search for “Patek Roulette” in Google and you’ll see where the inspiration comes from (a possible unique Calatrava) and also, the case is typical of the shape that was introduced by Patek with the Calatrava reference 96 in 1932.

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  3. What’s this trend with no date function. I find a date complication useful, and this particular movement being used was built having that functionality. Too bad it’s not an option being offered. And with its thickness, the brushed bezel looks out of place, so no thanks.

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  4. This has a lot of Patek action going on. The Calatrava hands most obviously, the offset small seconds hand displacing an hour numeral, 4 on the Patek, here the 8, and the typeface and positioning of the hour numerals. Oh, they even got a Chinese made micro rotor echoing the Patek 240 movement.

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  5. A nice vintage size and looking watch with micro rotor. to top it off it is very affordable that what reasonable want also it does not require those pesky batteries.

  6. horrible ripoff, in more than one way.
    please stop promoting this stuff.
    it’s unethical.

  7. @Hubertje
    In this case one person’s creative is another person’s derivative, so perhaps the disquiet.

  8. Just can’t get on board with the fact that the hour sectors fall into the previous hour’s space on the dial.

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