Back to Basics for Panerai, with the new Luminor 42 Collection (Incl. Video)

If you want to talk about iconic designs of the watch industry, then the Luminor collection by Panerai should certainly be on your list… Not only is this watch the brand’s most classic model, but it’s also one of the most recognisable shapes ever created. In recent times, Panerai has operated a “back to the roots” strategy by looking at its modern history, re-shifting the Luminor collection to a purposeful, no-nonsense dive watch with a clean yet emblematic design. Following the launch of the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218, a re-edition of one of the brand’s first-ever commercially available models, it’s time for the Luminor to reduce things to the essentials. Bringing back one of the earliest designs of the brand and now available for the first time in a 42mm case, meet the new Luminor 42 PAM01710, PAM01711 and PAM01714. 

Historical background

As with the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 released last year, this new collection is all about bringing back the 1990s cool factor, when the brand was just emerging from its classified past and into public view. The Officine indeed used to provide its timepieces exclusively to the Italian Navy until the early 1990s. But on September 10th, 1993, Panerai became a brand for the public, unveiling under the direction of Dino Zei, the CEO at that time, two watches that started the Pre-Vendôme era of the brand. The collection, quite short at that time, included two models that became emblematic: the first Luminor ref. 5218-201/A and the Mare Nostrum Chronograph 5218-301/A. The other icon of the brand, the Radiomir, only arrived later, in 1997 and was made public when the Vendome Group – today Richemont – acquired Panerai, introducing the first Vendome special edition, the PAM00021.

The Luminor Ref. 5218-201/A already sized things down; the historic 47mm proportions were refined into a more compact 44 mm, while the monobloc construction case embraced a more streamlined geometry. Distinguishing itself from the cushion-shaped references of the 1960s, the 1990s Luminor was characterised by its sharp, angular case lines, robust solid lugs, crisper edges, and a signature curved crown protective bridge seamlessly integrated into the watch’s profile.

The return with the new Luminor 42 collection

Ever since its public launch in 1993, the Luminor has become an emblematic watch, and one that proves rather versatile, as it served as the platform for an incredible range of watches. Multiple sizes, colours, materials and complications have come and gone, but the core Luminor design has always remained a fan-favourite. Now though, over 30 years later, Panerai revisits the original Ref. 5218.201/A with the new PAM01710, PAM01711 and PAM01714. There’s a slight detail, however, not to be overlooked: it drops in size.

As mentioned, the design rekindles the first-ever Luminor, then a military-issued watch only, from the mid-20th century. It gets its name from the luminous material developed by the company and trademarked in 1949, to replace the radioactive radium that was widely used back then. The hallmark design is very much respected, yet now in a diameter of 42mm instead of the 44mm of the 1993 debut model. The stainless steel case is brushed and polished, with a sloped bezel on top of a rounded square mid-case, and measures 13.8mm in thickness. The PAM01714 opts for a black DLC coating with a matte finish. On the right, there’s the signature crown-protecting bridge, and there’s a domed sapphire crystal on top. Around the back, a solid cover protects the movement, and the series is rated at a water-resistance of 500 meters.

For the dial, Panerai returns to its 1993 Luminor roots as well, with a matte black dial for the PAM01710, with beige printed numerals and a small seconds at 9 o’clock. To offer a touch of versatility, the PAM01711 comes with a forest green dial, while the PAM01714 has a matte blue dial in the same look and finish as the matte black edition. Legibility has always been essential in the Luminor, so you get the bare minimum in terms of details. Large, printed numerals and markers in beige, with sword-shaped hands in black and matching beige inserts, plus a recessed subdial in the same vein as the rest, and that’s pretty much it. Naturally, the thick printed numerals and markers, as well as the inserts for the hands, are coated in Super-LumiNova.

The finishing touches include the brand and model name printed in white, and at the bottom, the dial is signed “L Swiss Made L” in reference to the use of Super-LumiNova. Historically, Panerai used the “T Swiss T” signature for dials with tritium, and the “L Swiss L” mention was used when the brand switched from radioactive material to Super-LumiNova.

Hidden underneath a closed 12-sided caseback with engraved details is Panerai’s Calibre PAM.980, made by ValFleurier. This automatic movement runs at a rate of 28,800 vibrations/hour and has a solid power reserve of 72 hours from a single barrel. Made up of 177 components, it shows the hours, minutes and seconds, which hacks when pulling out the crown.

Thoughts, availability & price

For each of the three new Luminor 42 models, Panerai opts for a sturdy Canvas strap – in beige for the PAM01710, in green for the PAM01711, and finally in blue for the PAM01714, which is of course fitted with a black DLC-coated pin buckle to match its blackened case. When it comes to Panerai and its Luminor, it’s often a case of less is more. It doesn’t need much to be an excellent watch, and these three certainly hammer home that point. The new 42mm size might lose a bit of a stout, masculine demeanour, but it is a suitable answer to the trend for slightly smaller watches. And from all angles, it’s every bit a Luminor: simple, clean, ultra-robust, and above all, true to its origins.

Panerai offers the black PAM01710 and green PAM01711 for a price of EUR 6,500, while the black-and-blue PAM01714 is priced at EUR 7,500. All are released as part of the permanent collection. For more details, please visit www.panerai.com.