Monochrome Watches
An online magazine dedicated to fine watches

The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu

An intriguing new watch by small independent watchmaker Zeitwinkel.

| By Robin Nooy | 2 min read |

Small independent watchmaker Zeitwinkel was founded and is still run by a group of watch enthusiasts. Watches by Zeitwinkel share a clean, uncluttered, robust yet refined design and are assembled by hand in Saint-Imier, in the Swiss Jura mountains. Powered solely by in-house developed movements, Zeitwinkel is a true manufacture, something that deeply resonates with MONOCHROME. New for this year is the introduction of the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu.

Zeitwinkel as a brand might not be known to the greater public, but collector’s with an eye for well-built independent watches should definitely take notice. The combination of the robust but elegant design with in-house developed movements strikes a chord with many watch enthusiasts. Founded in 2006, Zeitwinkel (German for Time Angle) has been making watches in Saint-Imier with a distinct focus. Zeitwinkel offers a range of time-only or more complicated models in sleek, contemporary steel cases.

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One of the more popular models is the Zeitwinkel 273°, available with solid or tinted sapphire crystal dials. The emphasis is on the patented large date window and the power reserve indication in the upper half of the dial, accompanied by the small seconds sub-dial at the bottom. The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Fumé is the brand’s stand-out piece, now accompanied by a new Saphir Bleu sibling. The Saphir Bleu has a similar style but with a new blue-tinted sapphire crystal. The effect is striking, as it offers a view of the movement under most angles but sometimes seems almost a solid blue.

The dial is decorated with two recessed sections, one for the small seconds and the other for the power reserve indicator. In the top left section of the dial is the window for the patented large date display with a polished frame. Polished steel hour markers and hands complete the indications. The case for the Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu measures a modern 42.5mm in diameter and 13.8mm in height. The top surfaces are polished, but along the side of the case and lugs is a recessed and textured section with polished edges for a bit of contrast.

The automatic ZW0103 movement, following Zeitwinkel’s inaugural ZW0102 movement, is developed in-house. Very few parts are outsourced, and the full assembly is done in Saint-Imier. The style is quite German, especially considering the use of German silver for plates and bridges. The ZW0103 movement consists of 387 components, including 49 jewels and is very nicely finished with Côtes de Genève, perlage and polished and chamfered screws and edges. Time is displayed by polished hour and minutes hands, with a small seconds sub-dial. The power reserve is an impressive 72 hours.

The Zeitwinkel 273° Saphir Bleu comes on a black calfskin leather strap embossed with an alligator pattern or a rubber strap. Both straps feature a folding buckle with either an engraved or applied logo. The price of the watch is EUR 15,500 (excl. tax).

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