What to Expect from Universal Genève when it Relaunches in 2026? Georges Kern Gives us all the Answers
Positionning, price strategy, overall style, movement production, but also evolution together with Breitling... We tell you all there is to know.
About a year ago, Georges Kern, also known as the CEO of Breitling, made a resounding announcement for the watch community; the acquisition of historic brand Universal Genève and its planned return as a watchmaker in 2026. A brand known for its innovative designs and movements, benefitting from a certain aura in the collecting community, the so-called Couturier de la Montre is set to be back with a collection of high-end watches that “promises to restore the prestige of a hallowed name in the world of luxury timepieces.” This, however, is a well-dressed speech from a press release. However, on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the Polerouter model, which gave us 3 unique pieces that you can discover here, we decided to take some time to talk to the brand’s CEO, Georges Kern. Why buy Universal? Where does he want to position the brand? What price segment and what overall concept can we expect? We have all the answers.
Brice Goulard, MONOCHROME – First, an easy yet complex question… Why Universal Genève?
Georges Kern, CEO of Universal Genève – I have asked historians and our heritage team to identify dormant brands that are worth acquiring. Universal Genève was the first on their list. You can’t stretch a brand too far, neither to the lower nor to the higher end. There are limits, for most brands by the way, and so it is for Breitling. Therefore we intended something distinctly positioned in the high-end segment.
To be honest, from the existing brands, excluding the major players, we found none compelling enough to acquire. And by relaunching a dormant brand like Universal Genève, you avoid buying an infrastructure that you don’t want, capacities you don’t need, surplus stock, managing frustrated retailers, etc…
It’s much easier to start from a clean slate and then do it right. As you know, we have an advisory board, and we are committed to doing things right from the beginning. Right product, right pricing, right movements, and right storytelling. With Universal Genève, you have phenomenal storytelling, a distinct positioning in the high-end segment that will be very different from what you have in the market, and iconic designs that stand out. You have everything to be successful.
We will start most likely around CHF 15,000 for a non-complicated steel watch
While we’re on the topic of positioning, what’s your vision for the relaunch of Universal Genève? Where do you want to position it, not only next to Breitling but mainly within the whole spectrum of the industry? Who do you want to compete with?
At the end of the day, you’re competing with everyone. I don’t want to reveal too much now, as it’s too soon, but let me put it this way. In the high-end, super-luxury segment, there are two types of products. You have the Rolls-Royce type, very classic, but also fragile. And then you have the Lamborghini type, very extravagant, designed to stand out. But what is there in the middle…? Something that is both practical and luxurious, balancing sophistication with utility.
And while I’m not going to give the answer yet, as we’re still refining our vision with the advisory board. Our question now is “What car would we be?” If it’s not a Rolls or a Lamborghini, what would it be? I’ll give you the answer in September 2026…
So then completely different from Breitling, without overlaps?
In terms of positioning, zero overlap.
We have ambitious plans for its relaunch. We want to play a major role in this market, which is a resilient but not very innovative market
So where do you stand in the market? Not mass market. So high-end but not too niche?
Exactly. We want to be high-end but still commercial and successful. Historically, Universal Genève was never a super-niche brand. And we have ambitious plans for its relaunch. We want to play a major role in this market, which is a resilient but not very innovative market. It’s also a market where retailers don’t have a lot of offerings, as most of the high-end brands are focusing on vertical integration and exclusive boutiques. This is where we see an opportunity to stand out. We’re not here to have a new hobby. It will be a serious business, with ambitions.
It will also be a very cool business, and it will make many people happy, as they will finally find something at that price point that is very different from the two extremes I mentioned before.
Talking about price points…? As a range, are we talking CHF 10,000, CHF 100,000?
We will start most likely around CHF 15,000 for a non-complicated steel watch, with an increase for gold models, complications or métiers d’art.
Universal Genève is known as Le Couturier de la Montre (the matchmaking tailor). What does it mean?
It’s a spirit of exclusivity and of style. But couturier could either be ready-to-wear or haute-couture. It signals a style, an emotion and a unique identity. There are few slogans I find as strong as this one. It perfectly captures the brand’s essence, and positions Universal Genève as sophisticated and different.
Talking about the products, which we should see in Autumn 2026, are we talking pure vintage re-editions, modernized icons or something fully contemporary?
Since we’re reviving an established but dormant brand, we’re not going to be fully contemporary and novel. What we have bought is a history, a Genta design, a watch nicknamed the “Nina Rindt”, and so on. We acquired a brand equity, which is design and history, so of course we’re going to use it.
But, at the first advisory board meeting, we made it clear that we won’t become a re-edition brand and told the board not to come with all the vintage re-edition projects and they fully understood. No matter what we do, there will be critics. If we change too much, some will say, “Why did you change it so much from the original?” If we stay too close to Universal’s roots, others will say, “Why just a reissue?” So, it’s about striking the right balance between modernizing the brand and preserving its essence.
Jokes aside, we won’t do it wrong. We will position ourselves right where we need to be. Starting in 2026 you’ll see the vision unfold. We already have a 10-year roadmap for Universal Genève.
Would you say that the future Universal Genève watches we’ll see in the coming years are a continuity of what the brand could have produced without the break in the middle of its life?
Yes, this is right. The challenge is to envision what the product would look like if Universal Genève had continuously evolved its iconic products such as the Polerouter, the Compax, the Cabriolet, and so on. Take a look at the Porsche 911… it has maintained the same base design for over half a century, yet it has evolved. But there was no gap in its history like it’s the case for Universal Genève. There’s been about 4 or 5 generations of Porsche 911 in this time. So, we have to bridge the imaginary gap in the history of Universal…
Our goal is to retain a historically relevant overall concept that preserves the brand’s DNA, blended with modern execution, refined designs, new movements, etc…
Regarding production, we can expect synergies with Breitling? Or do you imagine UG as a completely stand-alone company with its own production, its own movements, its own distribution?
Yes. Of course, there will naturally be some overlaps at key retailers. And regarding production, we’ll rely on external partners to support us.
Developing an entirely new and high-end chronograph movement is extremely costly. It would potentially push the price for a stainless-steel chronograph to CHF 25,000 or more. That’s not where we want to position ourselves. Our approach to movements will vary depending on the type, whether it’s a classic automatic, a micro-rotor or a chronograph.
There may be limited synergies with Breitling on some parts, some specific components for a chronograph movement, but the final engines will be very different. However, in the long run, our strategy is for Universal Genève to have a totally independent production capacity.
Last but not least… Following the acquisition of Breitling, we could have had concerns about financial partners being involved, only investing for the short run. Yet, CVC Partners is still there, Partners Group has joined, and now you’re acquiring a second brand. Are we seeing the creation of a new watchmaking group?
No… Even if we were to acquire additional brands, I wouldn’t classify it as a traditional watchmaking group. I strongly believe in independent management, where each brand is structured around authenticity and responsibility of every manager. Of course, there are synergies to be leveraged – e.g. in distribution, supply chain, finance, and support activities. Breitling now is a big machine so we have all of these resources in place. However, these support functions are not what differentiates brands.
What truly sets a brand apart is its design, manufacturing, product, content and movements. We would be well positioned to integrate Universal Genève and potentially others. But this isn’t a group in the conventional sense.
A group is not synonym for success. You always have successful and underperforming brands within a group. A group is an addition of managers and management teams that are more or less efficient and good at what they do. Simply adding a brand doesn’t automatically ensure its success. What matters most is the culture of the team, the alignment of the managers, and the creation of an environment where each brand can express itself.
For more details, please visit UniversalGeneve.com.
Editor’s note: This interview has been edited for clarity.
15 responses
At 15k starting price, you better include shares with annual dividends in that package… seriously, what the hell is wrong with management in horology. It’s not even greed, but some kind of delusion. Universal Geneve should be a direct competitor to Tudor and Zenith at best, it won’t pull any higher weight. And if it had to compare to a car manufacturer, then be Audi at best. I rest my case. Hope Mr. Kern reads this.
Very interesting content.
A little sad for the positioning >15k, it excludes many enthusiasts (including those who already put significant amounts into this passion)
Jesus, 15,000 CHF for a non-complicated steel watch?? and going up from there?? The whole allure of vintage UG is a well designed, well engineered and well made watch for a fair price. That’s the essence of classic UG IMO. 15K+ will price out 90-95% of watch enthusiasts, who were initially very excited with when this acquisition was announced. This enthusiast excitement is likely to fizzle at this entry price. Well done. At 15K+, I’d go towards a Rolex GMT every single time. You could even acquire both an Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster for the same price of a new entry UG. Where’s the incentive to go towards new UG under Breitling?? If Breitling truly understood where the enthusiasm for vintage UG lies, entry would be between 5k-10k CHF to build new brand loyalty and go up from there. I understand that engineering new movements will add cost for new UG. But IMO movements are icing on the cake. For classic UG, the cake itself is the Gerald Genta designed aesthetics. Give the people the Genta looks with existing movements at fair prices to build enthusiast loyalty. Then release higher priced special editions with re-engineered classic UG movements and precious metals later on purely for the collectors with deeper pockets. Its like the classic Yankee’s quote: Why do the Yankees always win? Because everyone is looking at their pin stripes. Its all about the (Genta) looks! Only a small segment of the market cares about the movement (I say this as someone that DOES care about movements, but I’m realistic). Good luck with this.
15 grand for the basic model… So we are all about heritage, apart from the price strategy. Good luck, mate. You are going to need it.
This is a total disproportionate price point. I was looking forward to this introduction of UG, but now you can count me out. It’s all about Breitling wanting a return on its investment a.s.a.p. Really a bad proposition, a comparison to Tudor and it price point would be realistic, and compatible, but I’am lost here!
If Breitling was Honda: Hey everyone, we’re releasing a new Honda Civic! Starting price $150,000. Who’s interested?
As usual, head in the clouds management. No real idea of potential customer base. At 15k for a simple steel watch, I would end up spending my money elsewhere. Real nice Omega and a Tudor. Maybe a subby and a nice holiday, who knows. But 15k, come on!
Was looking at a navitimer for christmas, but discovered Sinn 903. Guess where my money will be spent this year ….
I disagree with the majority of posts here and think this is the right strategy and price point. It is high enough for retailers who lost their AP / Patek concession to fill the gap with a product potentially interesting to their clientele, but lower than the product it replaces (and which has seen massive price jumps over the last few years). Kern is aiming at the price point where AP and Patek were ten years ago. They moved upwards in price and out of the two-tier sales model, leaving a gap open. 15k is where AP and Patek were ten years ago for entry level steel models. The people he is aiming at know Universal Genève‘s history at least briefly, they are willing to spend on high quality watches with an interesting „aura“ and most likely already own one or the other high end piece, through which they have a relationship to a retailer. Who probably can‘t supply their original product of choice and certainly not at the price point of 2015. I fall in this category and what Kern tells about the product („Something that is both practical and luxurious“), at this price point, with a newly developed micro rotor movement and styled like a modernised Polerouter would be compelling, indeed. Competing with Tudor and Longines and therefore also Breitling would be entering a mature, saturated market in comparison.
$15,000 CHF is roughly $17,000 USA for their entry level steel watch, which means they intend for UG to be a very high end luxury brand. That seems out of character with the type of brand UG was in the past. I had assumed they would position the UG reissues at a Tudor price point, but they clearly think people will pay far, far more to enjoy the nostalgia of those old designs. I wouldn’t.
15k? Like Blancpain, JLC, GP, GO, UN, GS Evo9… How’s being in the squeezed middle working out for these serious, established watchmakers? Just how many upper tier, +10k watches do chancers like IWC and Panerai sell? With neither the prestige of the upper tier brands, nor the workmanlike utility and street-cred of the established middle ground, positioning Universal here is utterly delusional. Ironically, the ethos and design language of UG would set them apart from the tool-sports dominated middle and allow them to carve out an elegant niche in the sub 10k (if Longines doesn’t undercut them). But perhaps Kern hopes gonzo consumerism will be back in ’26 and everyone will pay 15k without noticing the reworked BO1 you can buy in a Tudor.
Did Breitling buy UG just so they’ll get a mention at Monochrome?
It is unbelievable that Kern has in mind to charge CHF 15k for a non complicated watch. Let’s hope Kern may get real before he is replaced by someone with a more down to earth strategy. UG produced some of the most iconic chronographs and triple dates of mid last century . Those are the ones the watch aficionados want to see back in the market.
I think it makes a lot of sense. As a brand UG has aged like fine wine in the years it has been dormant, the vintage references are broadly admired and sought-after, they have a bona fide Genta in the catalogue.
Lol, he’s absolutely delusional if the thinks that people will pay around CHF 15,000 for a non-complicated steel watch!! There are so many other options available to us out there for that amount.
15k good luck!