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IWC Updates Its Iconic Portugieser Automatic 40 & 42 With New Dials and Cases (incl. Video)

Although only small touch-ups on the case, the main attraction lies in the face of the watch.

| By Robin Nooy | 5 min read |

This year is all about the Portugieser for IWC, and the brand brings several spending novelties to the table, including updated icons within the already iconic collection. Next to the Portugieser Chronograph receiving an aesthetic update, there are a couple more things to talk about. As a collection, the Portugieser can trace back its roots to the 1930s, when IWC adopted highly precise pocket watch movements in wrist-worn watches. In the decades that followed, the Portugieser has evolved into one of IWC’s evergreens, known for its style and refinement. The range comprises simple automatic watches all the way to tourbillons and perpetual calendars. But in the case of the simpler Portugieser, there’s plenty to be discovered with the new IWC Portugieser Automatic 40mm & 42mm editions.

For the Portugieser Automatic 40mm and 42mm versions, IWC has again adopted the play of colour, with dials inspired by the passing of the day into night and back into day again. Besides that, there are a couple more things to talk about, such as slightly retouched cases for both the 40mm IW3584 and the 42mm IW5017, as well as an updated movement for the latter. The entire collection encompasses eight watches in total, six in the larger size and two in the simpler and more compact dimension. As ever, the distinction between the two is the same, as it comes down to either a 42mm size with a small seconds sub-dial and power reserve display, or a 40mm size with a small seconds sub-dial only.

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The Portugieser Automatic 40mm

Starting off with the smaller of the two, the new references come in the same Horizon Blue and Obsidian Black that will also be made available in other Portugieser sub-collections. Both have a finely brushed sunray finish with raised marked and printed details. The case for the Horizon Blue edition is in white gold, while the Obsidian Black dial comes in a rose gold case instead, both measuring 40.4mm in width and 12.4mm on top of the box-shaped sapphire crystal. The markers and leaf-shaped hands are either rhodium- or gold-plated, depending on the dial colour. The recessed small seconds sub-dial has a snailed pattern for a nice break in texture.

The Portugieser Automatic 40 IW3584 is powered by the IW calibre 82200, a modern automatic movement made in-house. With a bidirectional Pellaton winding system, ceramic parts for durability and providing a comfortable 60 hours of power reserve, it won’t let you down soon. Both come on a leather strap made by Santoni in black or in a gradient light-to-dark blue with a buckle that matches the case. The price for the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is CHF 17,300 in Obsidian Black and rose gold or CHF 18,300 in white gold with Horizon blue dial.

Quick Facts – 40.4mm x 12.4mm – white or rose gold case – double box-shaped sapphire crystal on front and back – 50m water-resistant – Horizon Blue or Obsidian Black dial – sunray-brushed finish – rhodium- or gold-plated markers – leaf-shaped hands – recessed small seconds sub-dial – calibre IW 82200, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 60h power reserve – Santoni black or gradient blue leather strap – IW3584 – CHF 17,300 (rose gold) – CHF 18,300 (white gold)

The Portugieser Automatic 42mm

Now, on to the Portugieser Automatic 42. Being bigger in size also means there is more space for indications on the dial to play with. For this particular model in the range, it has always been a combination of a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, a power reserve display at 3 o’clock, and the date at 6′. The 42.4mm wide by 13mm tall case comes in stainless steel with silver-plated, deep blue or Dune (beige) dials, rose gold with an Obsidian Black dial or white gold with that lovely Horizon Blue dial. Each dial comes with a different colour for the hands, markers and prints to keep things interesting.

IWC also introduces a slightly improved movement for the new IW5017 sub-collection, known as calibre IW 50211. This in-house automatic movement, running at a rate of 28,800vph, still boasts a 168-hour or 7-day power reserve but is better protected against magnetic fields over the outgoing IW 52010 movement. Its Pellaton winding system is also equipped with virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic components.

All new references, apart from the deep blue dial, come on a leather strap with a clasp that matches the material of the case. The blue dial is the exception, as this is presented on a stainless steel bracelet, which has a new folding clasp with built-in micro-adjustability, which is always a bonus. The prices for the new IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 are CHF 12,500 in stainless steel with a leather strap, CHF 13,500 in stainless steel with a bracelet, CHF 25,000 in rose gold with Obsidian Black dial or CHF 26,000 in white gold with the Horizon Blue dial.

Quick Facts – 42.4mm x 13mm – steel, white gold or rose gold case – double box-shaped sapphire crystals – 50m water-resistant – Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian Black, Silver or Deep Blue dials – sunray-brushed finish – rhodium- or gold-plated markers – leaf-shaped hands – recessed small seconds & power reserve sub-dial – date window – calibre IW 50211, in-house automatic – 28,800vph – 7-day power reserve (168h) – leather straps with pin buckles or folding clasps – IW5017 – CHF 12,500 to CHF 26,000

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2 responses

  1. …reserve display at 4 o’clock, and the date at 6′.

    this is 3 instead of 4, I guess

  2. They got rid of the curved spring bars on the leather strap? That was such a nice detail of the previois version. Now you can once again see the gap between the case and strap.


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