Pre-SIHH 2018 – Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Earlier this year, Ulysse Nardin launched a new watch that we here at MONOCHROME thought best represented the essence of the brand, the Marine Torpilleur. Visually inspired by antique Marine Chronometers, powered by an in-house movement with silicon parts (UN were the first to equip a watch with that), this piece showed an overall pretty cool look immediately recognizable as UN and a very attractive price tag. Well, as the SIHH 2018 is slowly appearing, Ulysse Nardin has unveiled a new version of this watch, the Marine Torpilleur Military. And while it is physically and technically (almost) the same watch, the look is something completely different.
In June this year, Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Marine Torpilleur, a well-thought-out facelift to reinvigorate the brand’s emblematic Marine collection. Slightly simpler in design, with classical lugs, a thinner case and a reasonable diameter of 42mm, it didn’t forget all the beauty of the Marine collection, with a dial that was clearly inspired by late-19th and early-20th century chronometers produced by the brand (don’t forget that these marine chronometers were the specialty of the brand since its inception, back in 1846). While dressed to be worn on the wrist, the Marine Torpilleu kept all the attributes of a respectable marine instrument: legibility, precision (thanks to the COSC-certified movement), and a classic display with large Roman numerals, small seconds and power reserve.
For the SIHH 2018, Ulysse Nardin comes back with a new version of this successful watch, now with the Marine Torpilleur Military. It is not regarded as a heritage piece anymore, but more an intention of design, to create something more modern, more dynamic, and mainly new for the brand. Of course, as a military-inspired piece, Ulysse Nardin plays with some vintage codes, yet without getting lost looking at its own past. This Marine Torpilleur Military is a real novelty for UN… And it shows quite some strong design choices.
The first thing to catch the attention definitely is the case. Still in stainless steel, still shaped equally, with an extra-thin fluted bezel and traditional lugs, it however, changes in style with a fully matte, sand-blasted finish, which gives the Marine Torpilleur Military a rough, almost industrial tool look. In terms of dimensions, the case is also larger than the standard edition, as it now measures 44mm in diameter. Finally, it features an oversized crown with diamond-shape, a classic style for military pieces. it is attached to leather straps with a slightly aged/vintage feel and the back is stamped with a distinctive Torpilleur boat.
As for the dial, Ulysse Nardin makes some strong evolutions too. No white plate with traditional Roman numerals this time. Instead, the Marine Torpilleur Military uses luminous Arabic numerals, paired with UN signature hands. Good news: no more date window. Also, UN has chosen to make this watch slightly purer, by removing the power reserve. The small second at the 6 remains the only additional indication. Inside this sub-dial are two pieces of text: a red number corresponding to the number of the piece (from 0 to 300) and C.W. for “Chronometer Watch“.
Two versions of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military will be available:
- Ref. 1183-320LE/60 – Steel case, eggshell white dial, black outlined numerals, blackened hands, tan leather strap with eggshell white stitching
- Ref. 1183-320LE/62 – Steel case, black dial with orange Arabic numerals and super-luminova-coated hands, black leather strap with orange stitching
Inside the case of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military ticks an exclusive movement, developed and manufactured by the brand in its Le Locle-based facilities. This UN-118 movement features the proprietary Silicium anchor escapement, crafted in-house, and it boasts both COSC certification and the Ulysse Nardin certificate, a double guarantee of the highest performance standards. This modern automatic calibre ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of 60 hours.
The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military will be officially presented in January, at the SIHH 2018. Both editions will be the price at CHF / EUR 7,900. More details on www.ulysse-nardin.com.
Technical Specifications – Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
- Case: 44mm diameter – sand-blasted stainless steel – sapphire crystal with AR-coating – steel stamped caseback – 5 ATM / 50 m water resistant.
- Movement: Calibre UN-118 with automatic winding – 60 h power reserve – 28,800 vibrations per hour – 50 jewels – hours, minutes, small seconds – COSC certification, Ulysse Nardin certification
- Strap: Black or Tan leather strap, steel folding buckle
- References: 1183-320LE/60 (eggshell white dial) – 1183-320LE/62 (black and orange dial)
- Limited Edition of twice 300 pieces
- Price: EUR / CHF 7,900
Really classic look from UN. Not clear if the ‘blackened’ hands on the white dial somehow contains luminous material, but if not, what’s the point of dark hands when the numerals are luminous?
Is it rough on touch (similar to sandpaper) ? e.g. not smooth?
It is slightly textured but not what you’d call rough.