Ulysse Nardin, a new-comer to SIHH, is well known for its Marine roots, as the manufacture has been active in the field of Marine Chronometers (to be placed on boat decks) since its inception in 1846. You won’t be surprised therefore to see that one of the main highlights of the 2017 collection is strongly linked to this rich past. Still, Marine is not the only field where Ulysse Nardin is active. Innovation is another one. Based on the highly simplified annual calendar introduced last year on the Marine Chronograph, this year the brand comes with a more traditional version, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer – and that’s not the only thing that pleases us here…
As I already mentioned Ulysse Nardin introduced an impressively simple annual calendar watch last year, the Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar. Don’t get us wrong though, simple doesn’t mean it’s any less complex to achieve or less technically advanced. In fact, quite the opposite. To make things simple in watchmaking, you have to be kind of a genius (and this why the man behind this movement is Ludwig Oechslin). What they achieved is to have an annual calendar that comprises only 12 elements (note: CEO Patrik Hoffmann speaks about only 7 additional parts during our video interview, and this is in comparison to a normal date system). Believe us, creating such a complex mechanism with that few parts is properly impressive. The side benefit of this will of course be reliability. The fewer the parts, the more reliable a movement will be. Today, at SIHH 2017, Ulysse Nardin introduces this mechanism in an even simpler watch, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer (no chronograph here).
This watch is based on the in-house chronometer movement – the UN-113 calibre – with automatic winding, 60h power reserve, date at 6, power reserve indication at 12 and silicium escapement and spring running at 28’800 v/h. Overall, the display offered by this movement is greatly inspired by antique marine chronometers and provides for high legibility. The addition of the Annual Calendar is extremely subtle, as only a hand for the month has been integrated into the small seconds counter at 6. While extremely sleek, this movement will be able to take into account months with 30 or 31 days and automatically adjust the date accordingly.
Visually, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer keeps with the design of other Marine Chronometer watches from the brand, with that typical case, measuring here 43mm, with a fluted bezel, integrated lugs and large crown. It is crafted in stainless steel. The dial shows a traditional blue color and long Roman numerals. However, while most watches of the collection have a lacquered dial, this one features a splendid guilloche and enameled dial – with the “grand feu” enamel being translucent, letting the guilloche pattern show through underneath. That’s another strength of this manufacture, which owns Donzé Cadrans.
Price: 12,900 Swiss Francs. More details will come later in our hands-on article.
Specifications of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Annual Calendar Chronometer
- Case: 43mm diameter – stainless steel – sapphire crystal on both sides – 100m water resistant
- Movement: Calibre UN-113, in-house – chronometer COSC certified – silicium escapement and spring – 60h power reserve – 4Hz frequency – time, small second, annual calendar with date and month, power reserve indication
- Strap: blue alligator leather strap with steel folding clasp